Need head gasket recommendation

Discussion in 'Technical' started by klynam, Jul 6, 2010.

  1. klynam

    klynam Member

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    Need head gasket advice

    Our Mav continues to (somewhat randomly) overheat. So I'm pulling the heads to look inside. At the very least I will change the head gaskets, intake gaskets, and thermostat while it's all apart.

    We're running a 331 stroker, ProComp aluminum heads, estimated 9.5-1 compression. I've not purchased head gaskets in a LONG time so I don't really know what's available out there.

    Seems Fel-Pro's with copper wire reinforcement (for aluminum heads) are good, same for Fel-Pro MLS, but I haven't shopped for head gaskets in a long time and really don't know what's available.

    Any other recommendations from someone specifically running a stroked SBF w/ aluminum heads ?


    Also, it would be great if someone could help me with the following...


    1. 331 stroker bore diameter (4.0025"?) so I know which gaskets to get
    2. Head bolt torque specs are for the Procomp heads (can't find online anywhere)
    3. Should I replace head bolts
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2010
  2. Rick

    Rick G8I operations

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    I use Felpro 1011-2 head gaskets these are $37.99 each from Jegs.

    But here's a tip, what you need to do is order the Ford racing 397-M-6051-A302 from Jegs. You will get a pair of Felpro 1011-2 (they have 1011-2 stamped right on them) for $29.99 the only difference is the package.
     
  3. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    I'm also using the 1011-2 felpro head gaskets on my 308 with Edelbrock heads. Edelbrock says to torque to 70 pounds in 3 or 4 steps on 7/16 bolts. Then tighten the long upper bolts to 80 pounds. A retorque is recommended after the initial start up and cool down. Wether or not you change bolts depends on how many times they have been reused. Personally, i changed mine out to ARP studs.:)
     
  4. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    I used Felpro's "Performance" type Print-O-Seal head gaskets with my Canfield heads and blew two sets on a 302. When I built my 331, using the same heads I went with the plain jane stock O.E. expanded graphite Felpro gaskets, liberally coated with Kopper-Kote. That was 6 years ago. Ain't touched em since. And I've more than a few times had the water temps up to 250-260*F.
     
  5. Blown74

    Blown74 Member

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    gaskets

    I went with the cometics and studs, no problems since, even w/10 lbs boost.
     
  6. klynam

    klynam Member

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    So it looks like we're down to to this:

    1. Fel-Pro 9333-pt1 gaskets w/ Kopr-Kote and head bolts (most affordable)
    2. Cometics and new studs (most dependable)

    Again, I'm running a 331 w/ Procomp aluminum heads and no power adders (yet - lol).

    Let the voting begin...
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2010
  7. klynam

    klynam Member

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    Another question. I'm planning to remove the hood and both strut tower braces to make this process easier. Are there any unexpected problems with doing that?
     
  8. 302-72-mav

    302-72-mav Member

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    Last edited: Jul 7, 2010
  9. sierra grabber

    sierra grabber Certifiable

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    definately check the port alignments... the trickflow heads have some upper steam ports that did not line up with the gasket hole as well as needed so i had to drill them...
     
  10. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    I'm partial to the Mr. Gasket Ultraseals.
     
  11. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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  12. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

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    The make or type of head gasket you use is really secondary to how it is torqued down, in my humble opinion.
    Here is the technique I use:

    Clean all threads in the block and on the bolts. Lubricate with copper antiseize all bolt threads and under the bolt heads.
    Tighten all the bolts in sequence (from the middle out) to 30 ft lbs.
    Back them all off in sequence completely.
    Torque them in sequence to 20 ft lbs - going back to the first ones and redoing all of them beforegoing on to the next bolt. (1, 2, 1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3, 4, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and so on)
    When you have all the bolts to 20 then follow the same proceedure torqueing them to 35 ft lbs, 50 ft lbs, and 70 ft lbs.
    You should be able to go over all the bolts and not have any turn at all with your last setting.

    9 5 1 4 8
    10 6 2 3 7

    above is the sequence that I use.
    I have never had any problems with any gaskets since I adopted this method. I have used top of the line gaskets and "rebuilder" gaskets and everything in between with the same results.
     
  13. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Torque sequence had nothing to do with the failures I had with the Felpro P.O.S. gaskets. These gaskets just do not keep a seal when you overheat the engine. The P.O.S. intake gaskets they make also have had their problems. Especially in using them on FE series Fords. The expanded graphite gaskets will seal til hell freezes over. That's why Ford went with em on the 5.0's. They seal so well, it's a bitch trying to remove the stuff when you remove the heads.
     
  14. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    No problemo. Go for it.
     
  15. klynam

    klynam Member

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    Thanks guys. Looks like my weekend is shaping up as follows...

    Friday night:
    Pull hood, strut braces, and misc engine components

    Saturday:
    Pull carb, intake, and heads
    Reinstall heads (Fel-pro 9331-pt1's w/ kopr-kote, torqued per above)
    Reinstall intake, carb, etc. (w/ new gaskets)
    Install new thermostat (w/ new gaskets)
    Flush-n-fill coolant

    Remaining question: Can I reuse head bolts?
     

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