The parts list is coming together for the EFI (drool). She will be a 347, but naturally aspirated aint gonna cut it. Does anyone know of an engine kit (crank, rods, dished pistons, etc) company for a huffed 347? Plain and simple, I want cubes and pushed air. Cause thats what dreams are made of. I know there are a lot of kits out there, but I would like to hear what you think, any personal dealings, etc. Havent decided on heads yet. Lookin for no more than 9:1 static compression, good idea? Probably no more than 6 psi. Pump gas a must. Any 5.0L gorus out there? Also, any URLs would be great. I would like to read up on 5.0L performance. Thanks for your help!
I'm a little unclear what you want to achive except a lot of power. If this is for Your Comet, a 5L motor should be used as a base. There are a number of 347 crank kits and various stages of short blocks and long blocks. The car should have handling upgrades and a trans and good rear with frame links front to rear to handle the power. You would be heading in a direction of a lot of power so make sure it can be handled. Two blower routes to take are the positive displacement and centrifigal. The Kenne Bell blower will bolt on the top, may need a real hood shape change and with 347 displacement will provide so much torque that the car may not be able to hookup without extensive rear and tire treatment. Centrifigal would be about the same with increased rpm at launch over the positive displacement. As in my sig., My car weighs 3985 with 7 lbs boost on a stock engine, street tire bite is very poor. The same car at 3880, with 14 lbs boost and well supported drive train ran under 11.5 last friday at Englishtown, to give you a real comparison. I would think this same setup in a light car would be capable of low 10 sec runs so you must invest in more than just the motor. So the point is that you will make a lot of power in a light car and have to be able to handle it. Best of luck to you.
I agree with Ken (he's good) on the 'power to the ground' - and handling approach. It's not an easy job, nor is it inexpensive to conquer all that. However..... if I had it to do over, I'd go ahead and punch a 351 to say, 393 c.i.? I put a lot of money into my 347. In hind-sight, I wish I would've put it into a 351 block - which is going to be my next buid. Good luck, settle in for more than attention to only the amount of horsepower you can make (fuel considerations, rear end, front and rear suspension, reliability, roll bar, butt load of gauges and automatic emergency shut-offs, very costly in itself. safety, safety, safety). If you already know it's gonna be a tough hill to climb, multiply that thought by a factor of 10. my 2/100ths.
Is that the slow learner point of view Rick ? LOL That does sound about right after the fact ! Been there , done that and got the bills to prove it !
I didn't make the connection (to my avatar dEsCrIptIoN) at first! HA! HA! Yup, that'd be a good example of my 'sLoW lEaRnIng'. One day I'll know it all - :coughcough: -Rick
Sounds like a MEAN 302! Might be something to think about, but the 302 blocks are a bit weak with forced induction and big cubic inches. I know from experience. A GOOD early 302 block with 1/2" head bolts pushing 10 psi broke a good chunk of cylinder wall out, bending and breaking all kinds of neat stuff. Also noticed later on that the center of the lifter valley had started to show signs of the famous "302 crack" down the center. Now, not to say everyone has this problem, but it just seems that it's common more with forced induction and strokers. Maybe it was just my (lack of) luck.
Thanks Ken, Your info really helped. I guess I was a little blinded by the available performace of the 5.0L. Before the Army, I was a GM tech (its all about the job security). I dont have much expereince with aftermarket 5.0L. Yes, this is going in the Comet. My Mustang runs 11.0s all day. Maybe I got a little spoiled and wanted the same thing out of a street car. The stang is far from streetable. Maybe a 347 unblown? That would definitly be a lot cheaper to accomplish, for the entire car. Any other advice? Thanks again.
if your EFI go centrifigal! 8:1 and boost it 9-12 pounds. actually i'd go centrifigal with a carb too.. now that i have the roots one. oh wells to late now. one advantage of the centrifigal is that you can use a nice manifold with some nice runners instead of the typical roots type flat manifold. also don't forget the 331 is also a good choice. good luck
347 all motor went 10.40's @ 128 in the 1/4 mile with the wrong gear and headers. Its not a street car. Just wanted to let you see what "all motor" can do. If you take your time, ask alot of questions and buid it right you can spank alot of butt with a all motor car. Plus it will survive alot longer. If anything, build a stroker and put a small "shot" on it.
Thanks Maverick Man and maverick5946, I appreciate the info. wow, mid 10's on all motor. I like it. That would more than suffice. And the 331, I heard that it has a better rod angle for revs, anyone agree? Im not looking to rev, I prefer low to mid brute torque. Thats why I wish to go with the 347. Thanks again for your info!
and by the time I made the 10.40 pass the track(muncie) was JUNK! My 60' time had fallen and was a 1.59 on the 10.40 run On a good track it goes 1.41-1.43. That pass was also made on a really fresh motor. I have since done alot of tuning and the motor is getting some laps on it. I think with this current set-up I could run 10.20's and with the right gear and headers I think 9's would be no problem. I definitely agree with Ken, it takes more than a beefy motor to go fast, there is so many things envolved. If you put my motor in a stock suspension maverick, you would be lucky to get 11's out if it. Good luck in your journey and keep us posted.
I agree with the suspension side of it too. My Mustang has a 9" spool with ladder bars on 31 13 R15 MT slicks. Traction is pretty important to me. But, all in good time. Gonna work the Comet in stages. My suspension plans are pretty rough right now. I am actually still reading all the discussions about suspension here. Right now I am just getting a draft together of plans and parts. I still have 5 months left here in Korea, so all I can do is plan anyway. Its probably not safe to plan this stuff being away from home, its kinda like going grocery shopping while you are hungry, lol. Oh well. Thanks for the info. I will keep everyone posted as soon as the work begins.
By the way-------- I was the one to take the first run down the strip after 5 days of rain and nearly bought the right wall about 300 feet into the run. Best I can figure why is the right rear wheel broke traction on a 1 to 2 shift. Able to retreive it and go on. All the rest of the runs were straight as an arrow. To say it surprised me is an understatment.
im going along with all that has been said, a nicely built 347 natrually asperated will run good with the right sus. and if you decide to build a stroked blown motor id suggest using a Mexican block, and a main girdle, my car has went 11.03 on drag radials threw the mufflers (3100 lbs) and add the 175 shot of spray and add the slicks it dipped to 9.99,, but i myself with just build a healthy 347 and see where the road leads,, keep us updated
If you want low end torque and you are building this for the street, I would say the 351 stoker is the way to go. But again, you are going to get different opinion's from different people. I have a 302 in mine that I take way up stairs, but for a boulevard bruiser, I would go with the 351.
