I just moved up to Colorado from Phoenix AZ, and I need to find a reliable mechanic/shop in the or around the Colorado Springs area that can install an exhaust and muffler, do some minor bodywork in the engine bay and maybe break my cam in. I just had he engine rebuilt and I have long tube headers. I do not have any capability to do welding or bodywork. I will be moving into a house in Canon City in the next week or two so anything in Colorado Spring, or Pueblo would be fine.
Would you have the car towed to a place so they could break in the cam? Don't know if you will find a place willing to accept the liability unless they were the ones that built the engine.
What kind of cam are you talking about? It's not that hard. The biggest thing is using the right oil the first time and not a set of high spring pressure springs.
Yes I would tow it, I have an enclosed car hauler. The cam that is in it is a Comp Cam ,this one https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy-218-224-hydraulic-flat-cam-for-ford-221-302.html I do have break-in oil in the motor now and do understand the liability issue. I am having another issue with the car at the moment. I changed out to a Duraspark ignition and when I gave the car to the shop in Phoenix it would crank over with the key but now it won't. He somehow burnt up a starter solenoid and replaced it with a new one. I can jump it past the starter solenoid, but when I do that the starter keeps cranking and I have to disconnect the ground off the battery to get it to stop. It is a high torque mini-starter so I have it wired with the big wire to the starter on the same side as the battery input and the smaller wire on the output side of the solenoid. I did get it started and it stayed running when I disconnected the ground from the battery and the motor shut down with the key. So I have a new solenoid and a new ignition control module coming along with a new starter switch. I am hoping that it is one of the components that is bad, my guess is the solenoid.
I would bet the way you have the solenoid wired is your problem. From the way you describe how you wired it I would assume there is a terminal on the starter that triggers a solenoid on the starter. If it does I would suggest taking the ford solenoid off and completely bypassing it, it's redundant.
Yeah I know that but, if I did that I would have to rewire the ignition setup and I don't feel like doing that right now, and it worked just fine before I dropped it off at the shop. This is how it was recommend to wire the starter https://www.cjponyparts.com/tech-mini-starter/a/155/
I see, I mis-read the way you ran it, in my head I thought it was back feeding to keep the starter cranking. I ran it a little different on my GTO, I ran the battery cable like Ford originally did and jumped from the battery lug on the starter to the solenoid trigger terminal. Both ways should get the job done just fine. I wonder if the shop put on the wrong solenoid, there are several different versions of that solenoid for non Ford starter applications.
It is possible that it is the wrong one. I do have a new correct one on the way and it should be here tomorrow. So here is a picture of the motor before it went into the car.
I once had the same problem of the starter cranking but not disengaging. After replacing the Ford ignition module with another one, the problem went away.
I checked that with a new module and still have the same problem. I am pretty sure I have narrowed it down to the ignition switch or the solenoid. I am getting a constant 12v at the wire that connects to the S terminal and I can't figure out how it is getting there. When I check the switch I get continuity in the run position between the thick yellow wire the thick Black wire w/ green stripe and the red w/ green stripe. I can't seem to find any connection between the power (thick Yellow wire) and the red w/ blue stripe (S terminal wire) even when I press the switch all the way in (start position). I am just not understanding how the switch works. When I get the new one in I will test it to see if I get different results.
There should be power on the S terminal(red/Blue) while cranking. The wire for I terminal (usually brown)has a ignition feed resistance wire in harness. The resistor is bypassed by solenoid while cranking, if this contact in solenoid is sticking, ign remains powered with key off.
