ABS light on - Ford Explorer

Discussion in 'Other Automotive Tech & Talk' started by Acornridgeman, Dec 16, 2008.

  1. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    Having some trouble with the ABS system in my 1999 Explorer, 5.0L AWD

    About 6 months ago, the light on the dash would come on from time to time. It would happen most of the time at highway speeds for no reason that I could find. As time went on, it came on more and more and at any speeds, even at start up. Also, at parking lot speeds if the light is not on yet, the pedal starts jumping around as when the ABS activates and then the light comes on. Since this all started, I have replaced the ABS sensor above the rear differential. Replaced both front bearing assemblies which have the ABS sensors built into them. Replaced the main ABS system computer with one out of a 2001 Explorer (same as 1999 with 1 revision code change). Checked all wiring and connections for the sensors and computer.

    From poking around on the web in the explorer boards, it seems that Ford has a problem with the ABS systems in many of the light trucks and SUV's. But nobody seems to have an answer on what to do and Ford refuses to acknowledge any problems.

    Since swapping out the computer, it does seem to come on less often. Tomorrow I'm going to disconnect the battery for a couple hours and see if the computer resets. I do not have a code reader, but from what I read on the other boards the codes come back as bad sensors and when everyone replaces their sensors (as I did already) they still have the intermittent ABS light problem (as I still do).

    Any ideas or anyone else have the problem?
     
  2. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    Are all your tires the same size???I am assumeing they are, One tire off size will set the ABS off. Have you tried putting some dielectric grease in the plug connectors for the wheel sensors?? Had a winstar that did that... dielectric grease solved the problem with that one.Did you torque the wheel bearings to proper spec.Under torqueing them will cause them to fail prematurely setting off the abs due to excessive run out/play lack of preload whatever you want to call it.Have you had any rear differential problems??? reluctor wheel/exciter ring on the carrier could be damaged.It could be a bad/loose ground or a loose pin in the connector plug for the ABS module.You really need to get your hands on a good scan tool so you can check wheel speed sensors and the like and make a determination from there.Good luck.
     
  3. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    Tires are the same - but that inflation idea is an interesting one for the size. Will check inflation tomorrow.

    All connections where dielectric jellied up and all the new sensors were tested with an ohm meter and are in spec. - all bearing hub assemblies where properly installed and torqued. The ring gear is the last part that is original and if that is bad ..... :(.......:cry:

    I should add, this truck has 148,000 miles
     
  4. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    Could be excessive play in the carrier bearings causing an erroneous reading.I doubt it though.Unless you have off roaded that thing hard I dont see ring gear damage either let alone exciter ring damage but hey... anything is possible.I hope its just an electrical glitch.Have you looked into getting the module re-flashed??? sometimes thats all it takes.Been there... seen it happen.Good luck man...
    A.B.S....ARBITRARILY... BROKEN... S!#T
     
  5. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    No reflash ever. I do have to take it in for the recall on the cruise control fires so I could find out about doing it. Trouble is just to hook it up at the dealer will cost $$$ I hate to spend ..... :)
     
  6. Corbin Johnson

    Corbin Johnson Member

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    Stinks about the ABS light. My dad's Lincoln LS has the same problem.

    What does it cost to have the computer reflashed?
     
  7. Mavaholic

    Mavaholic Growing older but not up!

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    I have a 96 Bronco. I have all the shop manuals for it so I was able to figure out my problem. For mine, one of the coils on the ABS pump is open. Unfortunately, the pump recondition is around $450, So I just live with the light.
     
  8. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    Dennis, did you figure that out from codes? I have another pump. Just didn't want to crack open the hydraulic lines if I didn't have to, specially when it is -5 degrees outside. If I can't get it cleared up I'll throw the pump in next summer.
     
  9. greasemonkey

    greasemonkey Burnin corn

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    You need to find out what trouble code you got. I wouldnt spend more money until you get a starting point with that code.
     
  10. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    Yes, I would like a code reader for the tool box. But, it is not that simple as getting the code and replacing that part with this problem. Many MANY ranger/explorer owners have gone through this. Code will say sensors, replace sensors, problem still there and codes will still say sensors.

    Actually, with 148,000 miles my front bearing hubs needed to be replaced anyway and the rear sensor above the pumpkin was only $20 - so I haven't thrown much at this yet (nor will I). Ford dealer will charge me $100 to read the code, and from what I have been reading on the ranger/explorer boards, it does not fix the problem.

    I have the battery off right now to reboot the main computer. Will see if that resets it now that the CPU, sensors have all been replaced. Will update later. A couple years ago, I was getting a flashing OD light about once a month. Sucked cause the tranny would default to trouble mode and only shift to 3rd gear top. The only way to get rid of it was disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes to reset the computer. This went on for about 4 months and then finally it never happened again (knock wood) .... :)
     
  11. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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  12. greasemonkey

    greasemonkey Burnin corn

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    But replacing parts have already cost more than a good diag would have. Can autozone not read it for ya?
     
  13. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    How do you figure? :hmmm:
    Your implying that I'm throwing parts at this problem and I have not. I spent a total of $20 on a rear sensor. I bought the rear sensor because the book specs an ohms resistance of 0.8-1.4 k and my meter said 1.8 ohms. Not far from specs but I thought it may be enough to occasionally throw off the computer. Front sensors are built into the bearing assemblies which were replaced cause the bearings where worn out - the new ABS sensor was a bonus to get included. I didn't buy sensors other than the rear. Swapped a control unit from a junkyard explorer. Didn't cost a thing in the long run to try a boneyard CPU.

    I would rather spend $150 on a reader I will have in my toolbox than give $100 to the dealer. As for Autozone - I have not been near one of those in a while, but it is a great suggestion.

    I only brought this up on the MMB to see what others have had problems with and what was done about it.
     
  14. Mavaholic

    Mavaholic Growing older but not up!

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    I do believe I did get a code that pointed me to the pump. The wiring diagrams I have helped me isolated it to the exact coil on the pump. I'm not concerned about getting it working. As a matter of fact, I had a problem early this year with rusted out brake lines so I redid all the lines and totally eliminated the ABS pump from the system. One day I'll pull the dash and pull the ABS bulb.
     
  15. blugene

    blugene Senior member Supporting Member

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    I once tried the AutoZone code reading. I have a free gas cap cause I won the bet. :)
    My money is on bad grounds... if it's not the pump or a short/bad connection.
     

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