i've been convinced to try the 250/302 swap. now, here's a question for all you 302-gurus out there... is there anything i should look for when purchasing a 302? is there a period of a few years which i should look for? should i avoid an engine from a van or truck, or what? basically, anything that can give me a heads up about snafu's in 302s would be great. thanx!!
A couple of things that torked me off... Some of these might be obvious to you, but for me I had no idea that I'd have these issues... 1. The dipstick in many 302s is driver's side aft, with a hole in the engine block for it. Mavs require a front sump oil pan and the dipstick usually goes right behind the alternator--through a hole drilled through the timing chain cover passenger side forward. Not obvious to me until I was already driving the car. 2. Just a 302 wasn't enough for me. I bought just a crate motor with no pulleys or brackets or anything for the accessories, and spent three months looking for a combination that would fit. (I eventually settled on V-belt setup for the '85 Mustang GT 4bbl 302 with PS pump and bracket from a Grenada and alternator brackets and timing chain cover from a '77 Mav. A couple of washers here and there made everything fit.) 3. During my conversion, I had never heard of a "PS drop bracket." I still don't use one, although it sounds like it would have made things a whole lot easier if I had gotten one. 4. The headers lot of people use are the short Heddman 88-400s, or something like that. I guess that's all I can remember for now. Good luck. Yours, Atzy.
stay away from any motor newer than 71/72, as the horsepower really started to suffer. ultimatly you CANNOT beat the later model 5.0 mustang HO motors. They are putting out 225 real horsepower vs 141 from the 71-77 302's (yes I know the 71 is rated 210, but that is because they had not yet changed out they rated hp. that was 1972) so the roller motors have almost a 100 horsepower gain. If you don't want to go through the fuel injection thing, they are quite adaptable to carburators.In fact, the 85 was the first year for the roller motor, and the last year for a stock 4 bbl holley, although the first thing I would do would be to slap a better intake/holley on it. the 86 was the first year for efi, however they went to a suck ass swirl type head for emissions. (I have 2 86 stangs, and yes, they pull like crazy) Those heads dropped hp to around 200. For 1987, they ditched those lousy swirl heads and put the good ones back on. To answer your question, the best 302's to be had are the 85/86 (with 86 in second place) and the BEST choice is any 87-95 5.0 from a mustang. Careful on purchasing a Non-mustang 302, as they might not be the "high output" motors. I see these engines in the ads down here all the time in runable condit for $500 or less, give or take. Good luck!
I believe that 225hp rating is at the fly wheel for those mustang motors. Most newer sports cars were rated at the fly wheel. Hot Rod magazine found that most (including the vette) are at the fly wheel. If that HO hp rating was at the rear wheels, the fly wheel rating would be up close to 270hp, which is close to what edelbrock gets when they dyno their beefed up 302 with the performer cam, heads, and manifold. As far as getting the correct motor, I agree that if you are not going to modify it, you should get an early 70's late 60s motor. OR I would go with the roller motor. They truely do put out more hp. (less friction in the valve train). However, if you are going to frankenstien your motor like I am. A '77 block has the smallest deck clearance (higher compression), plus the water ports and everything are set up for a set of 351W heads. Then I would put a set of 351w heads on there. HOWEVER, I can not recommend a casting number to go with on those heads because I am in the middle of figuring that out.
I might be wrong as usual on the hp at the fly wheel statement earlier. I will have to look into it better before i make that statement LOL. ALthough the other stuff is true as far as I know.
THe hp is measured at the flywheel from the factory for that engine---as well as all cars from the manufactures. Always rated at the flywheel.
Actually, i would avoid the '86 mustang motors that the guy above had suggested, simply because they have funky flat-top pistons which don't give any reasonable clearance with anything other than the weird swirl heads (that is, unless you plan on notching the pistons or having the motor rebuilt and putting new pistons in). On the other hand, i think that a roller motor is well worth the extra couple bucks because they are relatively as easy to get, have a one-piece rear main seal, and of course...roller tappets. If you don't want to spend the extra money on a roller motor, i think that just about any year block will be great except i don't think the extra deck height on the '77 blocks makes for very good compression unless you have small chambers.
do you wan`t something that not very manny other people have?? then keep the 250 and moddify it go to www.fordsix.com for some gr8 six stuff
