Hi, I posted something a couple weeks ago, about a clunk I heard going into reverse. We concluded that it was the universal joints. Anyhow, I had them replaced, and it still clunks pretty bad. My friend said that the whole differential should be replaced, and that there was a lot of play with the kingpin gears, and something of the sorts. Also, he mentioned that the trans might not be in great shape. I just got the Mav (74 2dr, 250 c-4) 3 weeks ago, and I'm just trying to learn a little, and get it in ship shape. Any suggestions? Please help.. I would like to know where to begin. Also, I've never washed an engine before. Is it as easy as everyone says? I know not to get water in the alternator, and to use a foam cleaner, and I was told to keep the engine idling.. guys, help me out here. I'm a girl who lost a maverick 6 years ago, and I want to do whatever possible to keep this one alive forever!! Thanks.. anything will help. Sara
wow, im impressed. dont mean to be sexist or anything but there are not to many female maverick owners out there, and then even fewer that want to work on their own cars. im not sure about the clunk to tell you the truth but as for washing the motor i just use desil fuel, never tried the foam before but when you buy a car or engine degreaser all that it is is pink desel fuel so why pay extra. good luck withe the clunk
Did anyone check the pinon bearing in the rearend or the yoke going into the rear may be loose. They can both make a clunking sound when the car is put in reverse. As for cleaning the engine, it's not that hard to do. What I do is run the car until the engine is warm but not real hot. Shut the car off. Then I cover the carb with a plastic bag and spray the engine down with an engine degreaser and let it set for the recommended time on the can. For heavy oil deposits I use a brush to loosen it up and spray it again. Then hose the engine down. If you have access to a power sprayer it makes the job easier. You may have to repete the procedure a number of times if there is a lot of oil build up. You will need at least 2 or 3 cans of engine degreaser and to avoid busting up your knuckles wear rubber gloves. And expect to get wet. It,s a good idea to clean the engine so you can find out if there any oil leaks around the valve covers or anywhere else you can think of. You might just discover what color your engine really is! Have fun.
Diesel fuel and engine degreaser is not the same thing . Diesel fuel is flammable. The engine degreaser is not. Spraying an engine down with diesel fuel is just plain dangerous.
Yeah.. the pinion bearing/gear was checked. i believe it was loose./or a little at least. should the whole rear axl/or differential be replaced? I won't be able to do that job myself, but i just want to know what's going on. as for cleaning the engine.. i know not to put the fuel on the engine.. ha.. does any one run the engine while spraying it down? i heard that might help... let me know. thanks again ..
I always cleaned the engines with engines shut off. I found the degreaser would tend to dry too fast with the car running plus if it should hit the fan it gets real messy. Once the engine is warmed up the oil softens up anyway. Thats just the way I always do it and it works for me.
You can, but you must be sure not to let any water get into the carb. Thats why I clean them with the engine off , the aircleaner off, and a bag wrapped tightly around the carb. After the engine is rinsed off and the aircleaner replaced then I start the car and let it run for about 10 minutes.
you don't want that engine on!! If you get water into your carb, it is all over, additionally, if you hose it down, and reach into to scrub some grease, your spark plug wires could shock you bad (as happened to me when I grabbed them in the rain. )Additionally I heard that if your engine heats up real warm, then you directly spray it with cold water, that might not be good for it, I heard you could crack the block.
washing down a warm or hot engine isn't a good idea even if gunk says its ok, you get condensation on the inside of the block, is it enough to cause any harm? don't really know, some say yes some say no. also do not spray any seals with high pressure as they are made to keep oil in, not dirt grime or water out. i would try what Jean has suggested for the clunk, except for the diesel part its an excellant solvent and to get it to ignite it has to be under extreme pressure the fumes are not flammable, in fact here in SoCal its one of the few solvents that can be used indoors and its also the reason semi trucks don't have spark plugs.
with respect to the desel, that was always my understanding to. this was actually the first time i had heard other wise.
Don't put diesel fuel on an engine in a car! Its no good for belts and will get all over the windshield , paint etc. use the proper degreaser for the job. The plug wires, dist cap are all going to get wet anyway and the engine may not start till dry enough and will certinaly stall if running..
engine cleaning Kerosene is one of the base petroleum products used in engine cleaners, BUT additional materials are included in the formulation to raise the flashpoint to prevent accidental ignition. Another reason to use the commercially prepared engine cleaner is because it has been modified to rinse off completely with water after emusifing the engine grease. Straight Kerosene will, as has been correctly mentioned by another responder, soften and damage rubber products and compounds unless they are made of Neoprene and will not wash off completely with water. In reference to washing off a hot or running motor, you run the risk of cracking the cast iron exaust manifolds. The thermal shock generated by an almost red hot exaust manifold being hit with cold water will crack them at the weakest spot. I had done this twice in my first year of car ownership before it dawned on me what I was doing. WD-40 claims that it will displace moisture on sparkplugs and wet engines. I have been told that spraying it on sparkplug wires and distrubitor caps will displace moisure from motor washing. I have never tried this on sparkplug wires or caps nor do I know if it is the correct thing to do.
rear noise Sara, can you be a little more specific about the "clunking" sound. Does it happen when you shift into reverse or accelerate in reverse? Does it only do it once and then not again until you shift into reverse again? It isn't often that the actual rear end "goes" bad so be sure to check the more simple things before you assume it is the rear. Is there a friend that can help you figure things out? What about worn leaf spring bushings or worn shocks? Give us a little more info and maybe we can help! Good luck
I also heard the wd40 thing, and I heard that it really will make all the rubber parts, and everything glisten and shine good. I went ahead and washed and cleaned the living dailights out of my 86 stang, then sprayed it down with a good coat of wd40. I would not advise this. The wd40 managed to capture every dirt and dust particle on the planet, making it look almost worst than b4.
