Holley Nightmare!

Discussion in 'Tool & Shop Talk' started by Cowboiup1979, Nov 17, 2010.

  1. Cowboiup1979

    Cowboiup1979 Member

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    Finally sat down and rebuilt my holley carb, and got it moutned and runs like a champ in the driveway! Fires up and idles, no hesitation, doesn't even make a full turn before the car starts... BUT.... i'm having some serious problems. It seems that when i go to accelerate it hesitates, and backfires ridiculously... to the point that my buddy was seeing flames out of the tips... i need to adjust the fuel air mix... but i'm uncertain how to do so to get it running enough to get it to a shop to get a more precise adjustment done. Even putting it in gear it wants to die, and if you try to "save" it by feathering the pedal, it causes it to backfire and die anyway... here's the odd part... it only seems to be doing it when it's warm? it does to a small degree dead cold (about 5min warmup time) but drove it over to my buddy's and was okay... driveable if you kept the throttle in the sweet spot you could do about 35... but trying to get home was a nightmare... got to the point where it acted like it didn't want to even idle without missing and backfiring... not backfiring thorugh carb, but exhaust... a well explained guide to adjusting this stupid thing would be incredibly helpful... before i revert it back to factory manifold and 2bbl and say screw it... love the torker 289 intake, and the carb as i said idles wonderful.... runs at idle smoother than my 94' town car... any tips or advice on how to get this thing rolling?
     
  2. maverick75

    maverick75 Gotta Love Mavs!

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    Did you adjust the carb before installing it? The kit should have came with instruction on how to do the preliminary adjustments. Then after that you tune the carb.
     
  3. Cowboiup1979

    Cowboiup1979 Member

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    yes, the fuel and air adjustments, all the way in and then out 1 1/4 turn for initial... and after that i'm lost :X
     
  4. maverick75

    maverick75 Gotta Love Mavs!

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    Uh theres more? Fuel level, pump clearance, choke setting, unloader clearance, secondary stop, fast idle,.... And on some old models theres more like the air vent valve adjustment, vacuum kick, etc....
     
  5. Cowboiup1979

    Cowboiup1979 Member

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    Okay rundown of what i've done so far...

    Adjusted the throttle blade positioning (they were opening less than completely perpendicular to the intake) via adjusting the throttle linkage

    Adjusted the Accelerator pump LInkage, using a .015 feeler gauge between spring bolt and the arm...

    set the metering block to wind all the way in, and then out 1.25 turns for fuel and air...

    Adjusted float level via sight plug... and got it to barely dribble fuel

    After setting these, used a vacuum gauge, and set the idle mixture where it gave me the strongest vacuum...

    Idles run 810 or so for no load, and 600 for in-gear idle... when it decides to idle and not attempt to emulate a machinegun... :X


    what else do i need to adjust? :huh:
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2010
  6. blugene

    blugene Senior member Supporting Member

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    What carb and how did it run before?
     
  7. Cowboiup1979

    Cowboiup1979 Member

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    Before the rebuild... it was creating my own personal hole in the ozone... and running stupid rich with stuck floats... to the point that it was running black... running clean and clear now, but i'm not sure... buddy said that backfire from exhaust is usually too much fuel? Hence why i'm looking for more help it's a Holley 600cfm

    Getting the model number now... :X
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2010
  8. Cowboiup1979

    Cowboiup1979 Member

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    Holley 1850 600cfm w/ vacuum secondary... electric choke
     
  9. blugene

    blugene Senior member Supporting Member

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  10. Cowboiup1979

    Cowboiup1979 Member

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    Ugh... i'm hoping it's something simple as adjustment. If i have to replace the carb due to cam and intake... i'm just going to revert her back to stock and enjoy my better mileage with the 2bbl
     
  11. blugene

    blugene Senior member Supporting Member

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    Sorry, I just noticed that the article isn't all there.
    Is the choke loose and opened when warm?
     
  12. Cowboiup1979

    Cowboiup1979 Member

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    Choke opens perfectly fine, and she kicks down into low idle without even tapping the gas (used to have to kick the pedal to kick it out of high idle) choke is getting warm enough to do it's job... just once she's warm... and even somewhat when she's cold.. it' like it gets worse as the car warms up, you get less and less pedal to work with without severe backfire.
     
  13. blugene

    blugene Senior member Supporting Member

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    Go down to the last three sections here. See if any sounds like something worth looking into. I once had to change my spring. I still have some cause they come in a kit. That was untill I went DP :)
    http://www.lovefords.org/tech/holley.htm
    EDIT: I forgot that the spring is for the secondaries..
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2010
  14. Earl Branham

    Earl Branham Certified Old Fart

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    For best results when you adjust the carb, use a vacuum gauge. Hook it to the manifold vacuum port in the carb (bottom, below the fuel bowl). Get car running and warm. Adjust for highest vacuum when adjusting both sides of the primary bowl, and make sure the choke has cycled fully open. After you get highest vacuum, adjust the idle down to 650 rpm, and it should run well. Be sure you got the accellorator pump arm back to the pump when you put the primary bowl back on, or you will have all kinds of problems. Good luck, let us know how it goes.
     
  15. Joe Dirt

    Joe Dirt BBF life

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    the .015 is at full pump travel it should have no sort of clearance gap at throttle rest
     

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