ok. after i install a new intake manifold... what needs to be done? if anything? just fire the bad boy up that hasnt been used in 2 weeks?!? hehe
Intake Manifold If you have installed an aluminum aftermarket one, I have a few suggestions that I learned the hard way. Be sure and use grade 5 or better yet grade 8 bolts with hardened flat washers. Have found that using the hardware grade of bolts and washers causes severe stretching and irractic torque readings. Also must check and retorque these bolts periodically. Very prone to coming loose and causing vacumn leak and nasty lean fuel mixture. Use of grade 5 or 8 with washers will fix this little problem for good. Adjust timing and carb, then go out and smoke a cheby or two.
yea im gonna seal the baby up and what not. and thanks for the bolt tip. i guess ill be turning my old bolts in for new ones
i have read that i should use some sort of "aircraft" sealant and dab some on the threads of the bolts so no leaking comes from them? any suggestions? sounds good, just figured id ask the mav experts
All the times I have done an intake, I have used no sealent, nor locktite on the bolt threads. The biggest thing to watch out for when doing an intake, is to make sure that those little gaskets don't squeeze out or in in the front and back while putting it on.
yea i also read to get some bolts and cut them and screm them in loosely, and use them as quides on th e4 cornes. waste of time or good idea anyone?
Permatex the hell outta the block at the front and rear, left and right sides (especially at the intersections). These point are where they're most likely to not seal. That's what I was told by the guy who sold me a 5 gallon bucket of Permatex anyway. :confused:
lol should i be worried about gettin any permatex on the inside of the intake? like when sitting the intake down on the permatex, and it oozes out the sides, is that a bad thing? 9i would assume so) therefore i cna only use but so much permatex?!?! hehe
also which permatex should i be using for the job? i read an article refering to --> Permatex Aircraft grade sealer
that brand sealer you use is not really important. Heck we have used home repair sealant before in a pinch at the racetrack, and it worked well. Anyway, just apply a 1/4"-3/8" bead across the front and rear of the block, and smear a small bit on the water ports to aid in sealing them as well. Yes, the studs to help lining everything up is a good idea. In fact, I used studs on all of the holes on the 351 with great results. It torqued down easily and seems to hold better than bolts....and in our case, we have the manifold off several times a year to check things and the bolts just will not last, nor will the threads in the heads. Studs stopped any problems that might have occured there, too. Sealer inside the block is not a big issue, after all it's softer than anythign else inside. Just let it dry for a few hours then go turn your tires