It's Finally TIME! The Mav's is getting a new engine!

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by Jerilyn, May 13, 2002.

  1. Jerilyn

    Jerilyn Member

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    1973 Maverick
    Well almost 2 1/2 years after I bought her, the mav is finally getting the new engine that she deserves! I broke down and got a loan to fix her. I have about 3500 to fix her. I got a really good deal from a shop on a rebuild, I have known the guy forever. To take the dog engine out, rebuild (including new stock heads if needed), a new oil pump, and of course the engine put back in. Now what I need to know is what kind of intake manifold, carb, and cam? Also what brand and part numbers for all stuff. For the cam what duration and lift? Also prices if possible. Just so you know I have a 302 V-8 with a automatic on the floor. thanks
    Jeri
     
  2. Pegasus

    Pegasus Powder Coating Nut

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    New engine!

    Jeri,

    Good to hear that your getting your Mav a new engine! I can't tell you what to get but I will say what is on my 302;

    CHP (Coast High Performance) 302 long block (B&BP)
    (set up for 8.121:1 compression knowing a blower was coming along)
    Crane cam (CHP) unknown grind, I need to call
    Weiand 8011 four-bbl dual-plane intake
    Holley 80457s four-barrel, vac secondaries (manual override), electric choke
    MSD 6A, 8.5mm wires, Blaster 2 coil
    Heddman long tube, unequal-length headers
    B&M C4 Tranny
    B&M StarShifter stick
    2-1/4 exhaust, Flowmaster 50 series
    (on order) Currey 9 inch rear end, Auburn Posi (blew up my last stocker)
    Weiand (B&M) 6-71 Supercharger, Hvorkan InterChiller (I've not run this yet, still in my closet, the thing kinda scares me!)

    Gauges; Oil Temp, volts, Tran Temp, Cylinder Head Temp; left/right, Exhaust Gas Temp (1 and 5 cyls only); left/right. Air-Fuel Ratio; left/right. OAT, BAP (manual-adjust). Custom-programmed STAMP-I to account for all of the above ;)

    (OAT=Outside Air Temperature, BAP= Barometric Adjusted Pressure (MSL) - adjusted for altitude above MSL (Mean Sea Level))

    With the Holley 4 bbl & Weiand 8011 intake, you'll take out your rear-end if you stomp it (I did). Go easy. The exhaust alone will thrill you.

    When I put my supercharger on, with chiller, I'm going to ask DAB (Doug Bauer) and Rick Book down to double-check my work before I fire it up. Wish me luck.

    We don't know how far you want to go with your car, but I want to keep mine totally street, *with an attitude*. I'm powder-coating the whole car and plan on showing it, more or less street/extreme strip. A couple of show trophies wouldn't keep me awake at night *grin*

    Oh, and by the way, if this car runs anything less than a 10.9 in the quarter mile I'll probably dunk it in the nearest body of water.

    Regards,
    Tracy
    '76 Maverick two-door "Pegasus"
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2002
  3. Rod

    Rod Member

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    302 rebuild

    I would keep it basic, nothing too extreme.

    Here is what I have...
    1. Edelbrock RPM intake
    2. Edelbrock 1406 Carb
    3. Comp cam Magnum 280H grind
    4. Comp springs
    5. Ford gt 40 heads
    6. Double roller chain
    7. High flow oil pump
    8. Carter street fuel pump
    9. Stock Dist. with Pertonix ignitor
    10. March Pulleys
    If its going to be a daily, I would go with a milder cam. Maybe a 268 grind. I like the idle of the 280 and the pull.

    Rod
     
  4. Mavaholic

    Mavaholic Growing older but not up!

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    I wouldnt go with a high volumn oil pump unless your going to put a deap sump oil pan on. I have read in a couple of major publications that a high volumn pump could actually suck a standard pan dry under certain conditions.
     
  5. Old Guy

    Old Guy Member

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    The high volume pump is really not needed in a mild street engine, however I have put them all my Ford powered cars. All have worked well. Only time that the pump sucking the pan dry was on a 302 turning 7800rpm on the drag strip with the front end being at a severe angle on accelleration. A new Melling's std pump and a Moroso hardened drive shaft is a good choice for "all" mild engine rebuilds but the high volume one can be used with no problem.
     
  6. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    First get it in WRITING.
     
  7. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

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    My opinion of a nice mild 302: (and drivetrain suggestions)
    9:1 compression
    1974 351w heads (rebuilt of course, with a mild porting)
    If it's in the budget, converting to adjustable valvetrain with roller rockers is a nice addition.
    1.94"/1.60" valves never hurt, but aren't imperative for this engine. Depends on the budget again.
    Small hyd cam... 210-220@.050" on 110 center with .475-.500 lift
    The entire cam kit with the cam of course.
    Weiand Stealth intake
    Drop base air cleaner
    Holley 3310 carb (one of it's many variations or tuner versions)
    Thin phenolic carb spacer
    Carter strip fuel pump
    Long tube headers
    H-pipe dual exhaust run out the back... largest tubes your exhaust shop can squeeze out there. 2.5" is cool if your man can do it.
    C4 tranny with 2200 converter and shift kit
    Gears... 3.40s or 3.55s
    There is more to it than this, but this gives a good idea.
    As stated above, this is my opinion of the best budget 302... not everyone will agree.
    Dave
     

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