more help!!!

Ok guys, I have run into another problem. Is there some special trick to removing the spindles, or did I just get lucky and get one that is 30 years of stuck together? I took of the tie rod and got the top control arm loose, but the spindle just won't come off the bottom control arm joint...I've tried just about everthing I know to do with no luck. I even tried a puller and ended up damaging the bolt part of the joint
So I also need to know if that joint is replaceable or do I need to replace the whole lower arm?
Thanks for the help

 

Thanks,
I tried the hammer bit, but not heating it up. Anybody have a lower arm for sale?

 

Do you have one of those tapered forked tools? They are made to remove ball joints. Almost any auto store rents or loans them out.

 

Heat is very useful for unsticking rusted parts like these. A hand held propane torch will not get hot enough. You'll need oxy to get it hot enough. The pickle fork is also quite essential. When Scott and I pulled a front end apart for the spindles and p.s assembly, we ran into the same problems. We didn't have the luxury of having torches at our disposal. A lot of elbow grease and a pickle fork made the difference. They make a pickle fork for air chisels which can be useful if you have a compressor available. I have to get me one of those for my chisel one of these days.

 

Oh, hey Stargazer, they still have new lower arms available at NAPA. I bought a set for my 4 door just this summer. If you can't find them, I can get them for you.

 

Thanks again guys, I used a pickle fork with no luck...I think I'll hunt up my local NAPA store and get a new lower arm and be done with it.

 

Your not hitting it hard enough or dont have the right hammer. Get a least good 5lb maul

 

What he said.

 

claw hammer no! no!no! no! noooooo!!!!! ...frank...:bananaman :bananaman L.T.N.G.
as dennis, said you need a texas size hammer

 

One other trick I have used is to drive the pickle fork in and then put a piece of pipe over the handle. Have one of your daring friends stand or push on it while rapping the spindle area with a ball pien or large mallett. Normally leave the ball joint nut loose but if your threads are damaged, watch out when it lets loose. Tools and helpers may scatter in all directions.

 

There is a real nice tool specially made for pressing balljoints and tierod ends out. It cost me about $45 for the tool at AutoZone. I figure that using this tool has saved me hundreds of dollars in damage that I would have incured using a pickle fork and hammer.

Every classic car nut should have one of these....just to save the frustration and bruised knuckles.

--Jay

 

thanks, Jay I will look into the tool at Autozone...