oiling problems ford 351w #2 rod bearing??

has any one had any problems the shop thinks the stock type pan cause is the problem shows lack of oil on number 2 rod bearing this is the same one that went out before

 

Oiling Problem

Just my opinion, the pan should not have any effect on the bearing not getting oil. The pan only is a resivoir for oil so the pickup tube and screen can suck it out and pressurize the system. I think that if the pan was some how not supplying enough oil(4ft wheel stands etc.) then a larger capacity would be to your advantage. Why is the rod bearing next to it not also effected? Bearing clearance, restriction or crank, rod, and a bunch of other problems could cause this. Usually if the system is starved for oil from the pan, a main bearing will be damaged first. Remember the more oil in the pan the more drag on the rotating mass, windage tray would help in that case. Constant low oil pressure and #2 rod bearing clearance to tight, is another idea. Have the rods been resized and inspected for burrs? Is #2 installed with the radius side toward the radius on the crank throw? That is enough out of this old guy's brain for now, whew I do get windy at times. Do you suppose that is why the wife keeps telling me to shut up?????

 

there new eagle H-beam rods this is the sec time for number 2 bearing doing this the last time was with the recond stock rods both times with new high vol oil pumps the oil pressure
at idle never fell below 45 psi this time but it had a nock less then 140 miles on it installed with the radius side toward the radius on the crank throw? not sure what your calling radius
thanks

 

one more find funny the rod numbers face up when the motor is upside down so the so the bearing holds are to the inside but when we took the motor apart with the eagle rods the notches was on the out side think they could be in wrong

 

if you put Eagle rods in backwards, that could be the problem. Normally it would be very hard to turn over by hand though, and rod side-clearance would be nonexistant. Also check the crank and the rods, some aftermarket rods have to have clevite H-series bearings or other "race" bearings instead of regular ones. For instance, the clevite H bearings have a little bit larger radius on the edges that match to a little larger fillet on most aftermarket cranks and performance-oriented reground cranks. You'll have to consult the rod manufacturer for exact specs, but ours in the windsor did not require them. I just use standard "P" series bearings and so far they're working well. Also somethign to take into consideration is the crank, is the journal tapered/out of round? I've seen this on a reground 327 crank once that destroyed the rest of the motor as well. Had less than 100 miles on it. Sometimes a machinest can get a little stressed about something and lose concentration at a particular job...and crank grinding is a work of art that requires exact tolerances (+- .0001" max!). It happens, unfortunately.

 

unfortunately he orderd a crank kit did not turn the crank was to far gone but this is the 2nd crank gone again on number 2 rod
the oreganel spun a bearing on number 1 trying to push it past 6000 rpm with 163.000 miles it just would not take it

 

The next time you/they assemble it use some machinists die and check to see if there is a problem with the radius' on the bearing and the crank .

I am assuming they are assembling with proper measuring equipment namely a comparative hole guage. Not plastigage .

I am also assuming you have checked all the obvious problems such as mentioned before , rods in correctly , not bent , everthing is round , not tapered , clean oil galleries , all holes in crank properly chamfered , rod bolts relatively new (if ARP ) and not stretched .

It is kind of strange because Windsors are famous for spinning main bearing ,not rod bearings ,because they are so big which increases the surface speed of the journal / bearing ( harder to lube ).

I would be interested to know what was wrong if you figure it out so keep us posted please

 

Did you plast-a-gage your rods & mains before final assembly?

 

Well as far, as can be found the problems with the high vol oil pump and the stock pan and the 20/50 oil he told me to break it in on
I think the 20/50 oil is what did it.
He does not think so.
The oil took to long to drain back to the pickup

 

Unless your reving a cold motor, I wouldn't agree with that assessment.

 

Nope was not cold. Just shifting at 6500 rpm been told that a high vol oil pump will empty 4qts of oil in just a few seconds and 4qts is all that’s in the pan. Being 20/50w oil took longer to get to the pan and the number 2 rod was not the only one number five rod was starting to go out

 

Reminder to self: Another oil-related failure with the high-volume oil pump being the common denominator.

I've never heard anyone say, "Thank goodness I had that high volume oil pump put on!"


Personally, I'd go back with stock. If you can finagle it, I'd go with a rear sump pump set-up and a 7 quart pan (the 7 quart pan may be too much, depending on your application). I think a few of the drag racers here are satisfied with the stock oil pump and pan.

Good luck and keep us posted,


Rick

 

Why does your oil pan only hold 4 quarts. 20 50w isnt your problem unless the temp is only 40 F and you are revving it as soon as you start it . I have never heard of high volume pumps giving problems except on this board .


But then again I use a high pressure one. 8)

 

well with the 302 or the 351w they hold 4 qts in the pan and 1 in the filter but in my case its 4 in the pan 1/2 in the filter and 3/4 qt in the oil cooler and being a new motor with tight bearings the 20/50 oil don’t have much room to get between the crank the bearing orderd the new 7qt pan should take care of that problem that and use 10/30 oil i should have

 

For those of you who have not heard before, yes a hi volume pump can be the cause of problems.
The pan need to be larger, it take more power to turn the pump, can trist pump shafts.
Unless there is a proven need for a hi volume pump such as wide bearing clearences etc. there is no need to use one.
Ford will even tell you this in some of there books on performance.
T