Rear brakes locking up continuously

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Hairy W Bush, Sep 5, 2017.

  1. Hairy W Bush

    Hairy W Bush Member

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    I can't even drive it...at all. It got progressively worse. Both back wheels lock up in a forward gear, but don't seem to in reverse. I jacked the car up, and looking at the driver wheel with it running, the brakes seem to be engaged but quickly release if I touch the brake. Doesn't seem to matter because it still won't move. Rear brakes were done a few hundred miles ago and I NEVER had a problem until now. ALL 100% new parts and the star adjusters are right. The only thing done right before this happened was a new front right wheel cylinder from O'Reilly's.

    I should add a little test I did. With it locking up as so, jacked up, I quickly went to the passenger side back (it's the wheel I took off) and opened the bleeder, and it did not shoot out brake fluid. so nothing seems to be sticking in that sense.
     
  2. Crazy Larry

    Crazy Larry Member

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    Looks like you need to start over.
     
  3. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    find some good pictures and make sure you got it put back together with stuff in the right place. If you did one side at a time, parts should be on the correct side at least.
     
  4. yellow75

    yellow75 MCCI Oregon State Rep Supporting Member

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    What makes you think it is the brakes, what happens when you put the car in neutral and push it. Could it possible be transmission is locking up in forward gear ?
     
  5. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    had a car do th
    at once...it was the lining of the brake shoe came loose...:yup:
     
  6. yellow75

    yellow75 MCCI Oregon State Rep Supporting Member

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    Just remembered a scenario I had many years ago, had a rear wheel bearing go out and it would move in reverse at least for a little while but when you tried to go forward was a no go with out a lot of effort just like the brakes were on. Probably not your problem but brought back memories. Also one time had a ring gear tooth break and lock the rear end up and did the same thing

    I would be for pulling the rear drums and doing an inspection
     
  7. COMETIZED

    COMETIZED Member

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    Have you checked the proportioning valve ?
    Cometized
    (Chip)
     
  8. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    Possible causes: E' Brake is applied...Brake shoes installed backwards...(There is a primary/secondary shoe) Primary has a smaller friction surface and needs to be installed facing towards front of car)... Master cyl is bad only operating rear brakes. (Just dealt with this very problem last week on a 73 ford LTD)...Rear brake hose is collapsing, keeping pressure on rear brakes... Or bad proportioning valve. Outside of these things, It may be a drivetrain problem as stated above. The brakes are pretty simple. Just a basic hydraulic system. Not much to go wrong here. Give it all a good once over.
     
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  9. Crazy Larry

    Crazy Larry Member

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    A '72 Maverick doesn't have a proportioning valve. That started in '75.
     
  10. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    But everyone refers to it as a prop valve instead of a " distribution block" Soo for the sake of confusion...Its just like the term Dash board instead of instrument panel...
     
  11. Hairy W Bush

    Hairy W Bush Member

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    thanks. this is not a transmission issue as someone stated. I thought about the ebrake, but I have never been able to pull my ebrake as it is stuck. the lines on the back are metal. you think maybe the master just went out? because I was able to bleed both front brakes when I did it. how do I know it's a bad prop valve?
    it will not roll in neutral because of this issue.
     
  12. Maverick Dude

    Maverick Dude Member

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    I'd vote to pull pull the drums, have them machined, (making sure they're still within spec), and put on a fresh set of brake shoes complete with new hardware.

    :2cents:

    MD
     
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  13. Hairy W Bush

    Hairy W Bush Member

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    f that, I already paid for all new crap. I'm going to try and go disc.
    I took off the driver drum, the star adjuster lever, spring, and cable were all apart. the lever was actually jammed between the shoe and the drum. I didn't have a chance to drive it long after I fixed it but I hope it's fixed. I've been way too caught up with this storm. rolls down the driveway now. what I don't get is why the passenger side was locking up as well?
     
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  14. mavdog71

    mavdog71 Member

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    Bush are you able to bleed the rear brakes and get a good stream out of both side at the same rate of flow ???? If not take and remove both hard lines from both wheel cylinders from the center junction block blow air at a high rate 125 psi. or more . Make sure the hard lines are clear from the junction to wheel cylinder . Then replace the rubber flex line . I had a flex line I could blow air through it BUT would NOT push brake fluid through it at the rate needed to make brake work right . You could have a flex line that will push fluid through it BUT will not let fluid return ... Hope this helps
     
  15. Hairy W Bush

    Hairy W Bush Member

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    so the rear drums on this car are now just getting quite a bit warmer than the front on just a simple short drive. I also hear a knocking once in a while coming from the rear wheels when braking. the lines on the back are hard lines and I believe they bleed just fine.
     

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