when changing the pads for the rear drum brakes, what is the easy or "correct" way. I simple took the wheel off, then clisde off the cover and then started to work. However, thats a bitch to get those springs off and such. Should i be taking that whole assembly off with the screws i saw? Thanks for any help.
I'm not sure I follow what you are saying. Are you talking about the rear brake shoes for drum brakes? The only way to get them off is to remove all the springs and the small spring locators in the center of the shoes as well as the wire. Do one side at a time so you have a reference to look at. The bottom adjuster should be cleaned and lube the threads with white grease. The parts are still plentiful at the store. The cylinder is mounted from the back side of the backing plate. The springs are quite strong and require either a tool or a pair of pliers with a good grip to to get them off and on. Sorry there is no short cut to this job.
Just my oh too: *) Take good pics of BOTH sets of brakes BEFORE removing any parts. *) Study the brakes to help you understand what the purpose of each component does. It really does help. *) Clean all the components with Wal-mart cheapy brake cleaner -any brand and lots of it prior to disassembly. *) Tools: I've changed out drum brakes with pliers and a screw-driver. If you already have a set of brake tools, cool. If not, I wouldn't be too concerned. *) Wear gloves - you're gonna bust your knuckles - no matter how careful you are (at least in all MY experiences). *) The shoes themselves (referring to the brake material) are not the same arc length. The longer pad goes on the 'back side' of the axle. Search www.goggle.com for general instructions. Lot's of information on the subject. I'm not sure about the 'screws' you're referring to. :confused: Also see: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/drum-brake4.htm Hope all went well (and that you aren't wondering now if you put the longer arced shoe on the back or not. Either will fit, however, the more surface area you have behind the axle, the better your brakes will be. I envision the rear axle being stationary and the rest of the car being 'pushed' forward, thus the reason for the longer pad being used in the rear.) I have no idea why (a lot of) cars are this way. Why not make them symmetrical? I rambled - and may be entirely full of snot, so please DYODD (do your own due diligence). 'Luck, Rick
thnx guys, i was talkin about i think 4 or so screws so u can take the whole unit off but i just did it how yur suppsed to. and yes i knew i had to keep one intact so i can refer off of it. all went well, except it sure is a pain in the ass lol now i just have to wait till monday for my intake to come so i can put that on then my car will be in workin order again! woohoo. and i still gotta adjust the brakes by doing the reverse drive then hit brakes method. i miss my car. 3 weeks without it.
Brakes Just thought I would add my nickels worth. The four bolts and nuts you refer too, hold the axle and bearing in the housing and also the brake backing plate. No need to remove them as you found out. If you cleaned everything as Ken said, the adjusting screw assy. should be installed turned all the way in. After shoes and springs are back on (vise grip pliers work well for that) you can eiither measure or trial and error fit the drum to the shoes by holding the auto adjuster away from the star wheel and turning it outward to exspand the shoes to proper fit. Then a few reverse stops should have them set to proper adjustment. Just the way I was shown to do it many moons ago.
one thing i do that saves a lot of blood and foulmouth: i (while putting it back together) put in the shoes, adjustor and crossbar along with the spring for the crossbar. use the keepers to hold things in place. don't worry about all the tension springs. (yet) then i use a strap to hold the shoes tight in place. you know one of those kinds that have two loops at one end and you stick the other end of the strap through them. pull it real tight. then they stay put while you are installing the springs and cable for adjustor. good luck
When I did mine, the biggest problem I had was the Automatic Adjuster return spring, that thing is a major pain because of the axle shaft being in the way but I suppose you could remove that. One trick I did use though was I slid a flat head screw driver through the socket hole in the axle shaft face (where you would normally use a deep socket) grabbed the spring hook and then turned the shaft pulling the spring, took a few tries and a few flying springs to get it right .
