Has anyone here actually used the parts necissary to convert a non roller motor to accept a roller cam? If so, how much work is involved and does it actually function properly? Here is the summit link which sells the ford racing parts needed to do the converstion roller cam converstion kit
Well, David, the kit you see is just the spider and lifter retainers. I think I have this correct.....The older blocks have a shorter lifter bore, therefore, when using newer stock roller parts your lifters will not fit correctly. To compensate, they sell smaller base circle roller cams to retrofit older blocks. They generally cost 200-300 just for the cam! I don't know if you need special lifters also! Then add in the spider and hold down and you are well over 300 plus whatever the lifters cost. Find a newer roller block, you may be able to reuse the lifters and used roller cams are cheap! I bought a cobra cam, lifters and timing chain (30K miles) for 90.00! Also, new 5.0 roller cams are quite affordable. I don't think it is worth the cash to retrofit due to the abundance of newer 5.0s available. However, you may have a good reason to do so if you just rebuilt your engine or you have a rare block (Boss)!
I converted my 71 block to roller. Look around cause the guys that really build their motors usually have the spyder and retainers laying around in boxes. They go to a different type roller that dont use the spyder set up. I got mine from a friend for free. EFI is right in that you have to get a retro cam, or one that is ground on a small base circle. I just picked out the grind I wanted and had Comp Cams grind the same specs on a small base circle. Dosent cost any more than a standard roller cam. You can use the standard Mustang hydraulic roller lifters. They are dirt cheap new, but if a guy has the other stuff, he probably has the lifters too. Once you get the parts its just a matter of drilling 2 holes in the valley pan and tapping some threads in them. You wont have to pull the heads to get the Mustang lifters in.
Mavaholic, nice to know that comp cams will grind one for you at the same cost! I'll keep that in mind! Does anyone know if the 5.0 lifters and lifter retainers will work in an older 351W? I know the 351 has a taller deck height but the spider may work. In other words can you convert a 351 with the stock spider, lifter retainers and lifters from a 5.0 and get a cam from comp cam?
I dont know for sure but I cant see why it wouldnt work. Just need longer pushrods. I believe the 289,302,351W & M motors all have the same lifter bore.
I just looked at Summit's websight the retrofit kit is the same for all the above motors plus the 351C http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-31-1000
I do not quite understand why a different type of roller cam must be used. What is the difference between the older blocks and the roller blocks that cause it to require a different cam?
David, the newer roller lifters sit to high in the bore with the stock 5.0 cam in the old block! With the smaller base circle cam the lifter sits lower in the bore in the older blocks.
Ah I see that makes sense. You see the reason I want to possibly go with a roller cam is that the idle is more reasonable, which means I might be able to pass emissions easier. I am not sure if the power output would be more but I could certainly hope so.
used the Roller Cam Conversion Kit on my 351w works great they have a few cams for the 351w still have not opened mine up to see how well they work need to put another 300 miles on it then play time
I just did this swap on my mustang 351W, because I'm a cheap B I went to the wrecking yard and got the spider, H locks and lifters for $40 from a linclon. I have a comp cam retro fit cam and replace the push rods with the comp cams retro ones. Sence I had the motor completly tore down I drill all the way threw for mounting the spider, the holes line up with the cam bearing jounals. That way I didn't have to worry about breaking a tap in a blind hole. Something I have noticed in the magazines when they do this swap they grind the valley flat, the letters and stuff, then bolt the spider down. This is not right the spider needs to set a little off the valley floor so the oil returning to the pan can get to the cam on it's way vai the holes in the middle of the valley. I used the nub on one side and a shim on the other. The cam I had was 214/224 dur@.050 and .472/.496 now I have 224/224 dur@.050 and .533/.533 the biggest change has been the gas milage and the power is better too. I changed the intake and carb also.
So, Thomas, all you really need is the retro cam and the proper length push rods! All of the other stuff was stock 5.0, correct? Also, WF doesn't carry the pivot ball any longer!
The milage went up, I was getting 14-16 now it's 16-18 city freeway combo. I have a 5 speed and 3.40 gears. The power on the bottom end feels the same but the top end rush is better. The manifold change was from edelbrock performer to weiland stealth. I'm still working on the jetting but, I think I'm really close now. I was making 308 Hp 430 tq at the rear wheels. Soon as the jetting and timming are right I will check it again. Yes I used comp cams cam $230 and hardend push rods $40 and used lifters, H locks, and spider. Roller lifters have little to no wear
There are many advantages to going with the roller cam retrofit & it is worth the extra expense as Thomas stated. I've done this simple conversion may times. And it is easy. Just make sure you buy the manufacturers recommended pushrods. Advantages over a conventional performance cam are: 1) Better gas mileage. 2) Better quality idle. 3) Better driveabilty. 4) Longer cam & lifter life. 5) More aggressive grinds can be used in a stock motor. 6) Less valve spring changes to accomodate the cam. There are many other minor advantages. They have these retrofit kits pretty scienced out now & I think it's the only way to go. Just my .02
