Ok I finally got my Transmission out, as well as the clutch, right now the car is on stands (both front and rear) the engine is being supported from the rear by an old jack stand and a piece of wood. Anyhow I cannot get the flywheel bolts to budge no matter what I do, I tried bracing it with a prybar to the garage floor (I can't seem to brace it against the engine block all it wants to do is pry against that thin plate between the flywheel and block) I used my Torque Wrench to try and budge the bolts to no avail, all I succeded in doing was litterally picking up the engine a couple of times with the torque wrench while trying to remove the bolts. I haven't tried Rust Penetrant yet because I didn't wanna get any on the flywheel surface and also I don't think the bolts are rusted on i'm thinkin perhaps Thread Lock was used or something they don't really look rusty. I tried bracing it with the crank bolt but I ended up loosening that bolt sheesh! Ford really put this thing on there good. Any ideas on what I could possibly do here? The ring gear is what is bad (as noted from other posts) I can't press that off while the flywheel is on the car it's next to impossible. I don't wanna risk using a torch under there to heat up the ring gear (and/or the flywheel bolts) because of all the grease, oil, grime, and fumes from various chemicals - not a good combo. Seriously at my wits end here. Joe
I have always done my flywheel clutch work with a large impact wrench handy. That is usually what it takes. Penetrating oil can be cleaned up easily with brake cleaner.
Since the bolt holes in the crankshaft flange open right into the crankcase Ford sometimes would put sealant on the threads of the flywheel bolts, guess they got carried away this time. If you decide to replace the starter ring gear, there are a couple of ways to get it off. Most places just cut through it with a band saw. You have to be careful not to cut into the flywheel. You can saw cut it so far, then finish with a sharp chisel. I prefer to use a big punch and 2 lb hammer and work my way around untill it comes off. To install the new gear put the flywheel in the freezer for a couple hours, heat the ring gear in a 500 deg. oven for ten or 15 minutes. It'll drop right on the flywheel. Quench immediately with some water-soaked rags. Good luck with the bolts.
If at all possible use a larger breaker bar or a pipe over the handle ... Ive had to jack up my cars an extra foot and put more dunnage for support and use a 2 foot pipe over my breaker bar for some leverage... Please be careful if you do this though ... Make sure that if any thing should move it wont fall ... what i do as a precaution is to stack two filled tires on each side in the event i pull it off the stands
Flywheel bolts Loc-Tite is a real pinta, try using a good 1/2 impact or take a 2lb ball pein hammer and rap each bolt a lick, hard. If all else fails the torch is going to have to be used, have found that on pipe plugs and bolts like yours, you can heat them red and the immediately squirt them with cold water from a bottle. This shrinks them up a bit and will usually free them up. Use a small tip if you can't get the grease and oil cleaned up, it won't flare so much and "Be carefull please". I have used cheater pipes on breaker bars myself but is a real no no. Broke a lot of them, and sockets, good thing they were Craftsman or Snap-On. If you can get a good impact, try using it to tighten and then loosen in sequence on each bolt. Good luck and be safe.
Thanx for the assist guys, it finally gave, my friend got under there with the torque wrench and I held a screwdriver up against the ring gear as hard as I could as he pushed with all his strength, did the trick albeit grueling . Turns out I have a rear main seal leak once the flywheel dropped (litterally - luckily I caught it - the ring gear did cut my finger though - ouch). but fortunatley I have an Oil Pan Gasket kit on my shelf so that won't be a hard fix. Alot of cleanup work ahead of me then I gotta worry about the flywheel fix before we can even put everything back together (thats the fun part), I don't know what the Torque Specs are on the flywheel bolts can't seem to find em anywhere if anyone knows them i'd appreicate the info thanx
Well today I went and priced new Ring Gears, and if neccessary a new flywheel. Napa wants $40 for the Ring Gear, and $45 for the Flywheel (which includes the ring gear already installed), $5 more for a complete setup!. They tell me it's that way because hardley anyone does this. Flywheels are supposed to last and they probably do when you don't have previous owners that use only one bolt for the starter lol. It's beginning to look like it's not even worth it to mess with the ring gear but I still have a couple other places to try I know AutoZone is out because they only have the flexplate for an automatic, although if I had a 302 they could help me but since I don't looks like Napa is the only option at this point i'll post an update soon.
I got my last starter ring gear from CJ Pony parts for $25. Ford wanted $45. When I priced stock flywheels Ford wanted $108. $45 dollars for a new flywheel is downright cheap. For that price I would just buy the whole assembly.
Thats originally what I wanted to do, but #1 I don't have an engine hoist (yet), #2 I was told it'd be easier to just pull the transmission and take out the flywheel with the engine on the car (yeah right), I've dropped transmissions before I don't like doing it it's grueling work esp when you don't have all the equipment you really need in my case all I have at my disposal is a cheap little 2 ton floor jack, pieces of wood from a fence that blew down in the last storm, and a little bottle jack my friend let me borrow which was used to raise and lower the tranny to get at the bolts holding it to the bellhousing. Even without an engine stand or workbench I think yer right it would have been easier and in the future because I will be getting an engine hoist here soon that is how I will do it.
Flywheel Replacement Just thought I would give a little comment on your delima. If you are going to put on a new flywheel, I hope your are planning to put in a new clutch too. The use of an already used clutch disc on a new surface of the flywheel will sometimes lead to problems. Chattering, slippage and even ruining the new wheel itself. Also, do you have a clutch aligning tool? No way can you get the trans back in without the disc being lined up with the pilot bushing. Have used and old trans input shaft from a 39 Ford for this tool, fits almost all Fords. Can get a cheap tool at the parts house or even rent one. Is the pilot bushing in good shape? Now is the time to change stuff so you won't have to pull the thing out again. Just my opinion, but there is no reason to ever have to pull the engine to change a clutch or flywheel. Automatic, sometimes but the floor jack and bottle jack worked well for me. That little 3 speed gear box is a snap to put up in the car if you have a helper, in my case, or else use the jack( kind of wobbley though). It can get frustrating but with patients and maybe a brewski or two, it can be made easy. Back when I was younger, just put the trans on my chest and pushed it right into place. Man I miss those days, or do I.
The trans is a lot easier to install if you make a pair of alignment studs. Cut or grind the heads off of a pair of 2 1/2" - 3" bolts the same thread size as your trans to bellhousing bolts. You may want to use a hack saw to make a screwdriver slot in the ends to help remove them when your done. Screw the studs into the lower holes of the bellhousing about 3 or 4 turns. When you lift up the trans get the input shaft started thru the release bearing and the lower trans holes started onto the studs. The studs will hold the trans up and keep it perfectly aligned with the bellhousing and pilot bearing. By the way, the roller pilot bearings used in the truck 302/5.0 will fit our older 302's. Cost about $17 dollars at the local Ford dealer.
In answer to your question Old Guy yes I do have a Clutch Pilot Tool bought it the other day at AutoZone . The one my friend had didn't fit but it did help me get the clutch out cause when the tranny came out it caused the clutch release lever to bend down a little bit but thats been fixed. As for the clutch disc itself it's practically brand new apparently the previous owner installed it just before the car got sold and not many miles have been put on it since it was installed. the longest was 14 (the initial drive to my house from where I got it) cause it's got little to no wear on it whatsoever I even brought the disc in with me to AutoZone when I got that pilot tool to make sure they gave me the right one and they said it was in great shape so shouldn't it still work? Can't really afford a new clutch disc right now. As for putting the trans back in I'm thinkin of getting some guide studs i'd make em but I don't have the means to do that I could probably bench press the thing back in it's really not heavy per say it's just awkward so I got my friend to help me do that a second pair of hands when dealing with any transmission is always best . And yer absolutley right now is the time to change things which is why i'm inspecting everything carefully trying to predict what might fail back there next and take care of it now before it bites me in the a$$ later. I am however in somewhat of a bind the clutch rod (where you adjust the clutch pedal free play) is bent slightly assumingly from years of hard use i've been unable to locate a new one anywhere and I know I probably won't get anywhere at the junk yard it's not bad and it will still work but i'm bein picky ., i'll probably try the torch with a soft hammer maybe I can straighten it a little bit the threads are still good just in need of some cleaning. Didn't really get a good look at the pilot bushing so i'll have to crawl under there with the flashlight and look real good I don't have the special tool needed to remove it if it is bad so hopefully it's not I know I can get it anywhere but it's another expense if ya know what I mean.
Flywheel Possibilities This is just a shot in the dark here, but in the event Napa is unable to get the flywheel for me are there any other flywheels that will fit the 200?. My chances of finding a Mav or Comet in the junk yard with a manual tranny setup and that engine are slim and none, i'd have far better odd's of winning the lotto. I was just curious if a flywheel off say a 170 or 144 would work? or one off a V6? I know a 302 Flywheel won't work anymore then a 250 one would. Mere curiousity here hopefully it will not be needed.
