Starter Problem (STILL STUMPED!) Dropped the engine in after cleaning and new head gaskets etc.. Started right up and drove great to the muffler man. Then the tropuble began. The starter started to squael like it would not disengage, once the thorttle was stepped on it went away. But, it got worse all day today until it finaly just made an awful racket when engaged and the engine would not turn over. So I pulled the starter. The teeth on the bendix were just about GONE! Now my flywheel has some sharp edges and I am confused. I never pulled the flywheel off, same bellhousing, same starter.. What happened? I just picked up a neww starter but am hesitant to put it in. I did instal a new converter (worked awesome today) but I do not think that could affect anythong since it is behind the flywheel... Ideas?? Scott (I did change the starter solenoid but after seeing the bendix it obviously was not at fault)
OK new starter, no problem BUT... For a few seconds after starting there is a hmm how do I describe it almost a scraping, gravelly sound from down under, then she runs great.. I do not want to chew up a flywheel ideas???Scott
What kind of starter is it? Is it the standard Ford large starter, or a late-model PMGR starter? I've had problems with the later model ones staying engaged too long after you release the key, but have had 0 problems with the early large diameter ones. Keep us posted
It almost sounds like the flywheel dragging on something than the bendix engaging..Very strange sound.. It is the early large style although I just put a new one on and I think the sound is coming back...Err Scott
starter Did you reinstall the block spacer plate also? Have seen a few rebuilt starters that fo one reason or another, had a different nose piece that would interfere with the flex plate. Usually would be ever so slightly but caused the same noise and left a tell tale mark on the aluminum. Also the two attaching bolts are prone to loosening up and allows the starter to misalign with the teeth etc. I assume neither of the bolt holes are stripped? If you are running headers these are killers on large stock starters. Heat shields will help but a good mini starter seems to work the best.
Any chance the torque converter drain plug is not lined up with the clearance hole in the flywheel? It's a one in four chance if you didn't look. (I;ve done it)!
I will check the converter drain plug. How would that cause the starter to misalign? Am I not thinking straight? It sounds today like the starter is definately dragging the flywheel, at least until enough teeth are gone from the bendix anyway.. If the converter drain plug is misaligned that would cause the bellhousing to be further away from the flywheel yes? That would be the opposite problem of what I have (I think) my flywheel seems to close to the starter. And yes Old Guy, the block plate is in HELP!!
Losing it here! Ok, just for kicks I pulled the new starter, teeth look good. I inserted washers between the starter and the bellhousing just to see if it helps, NOPE! It honestly sounds like something is rubbing on the flywheel the whole time. My aftermarket converter drain plug never did align with the stock flywheel, smal converter standard flywheel, they just don't line up. Could that be it? I don't see how. For one thing the converter is bolted to the flywheel so it can't drag on it.. I am open for ideas as I am getting very frustrated here. The new motor fired and ran on the forst turn of the key and was even close to timed and now this! Old Guy I do not see any telltale lines around the flywheel where the starter nose might be dragging. And after my washer job that should have stopped if that was it.. Needs ideas here....My wife says my stress relief car project is stressing me!!! Alas, she still loves the Maverick idea. We dated in it in high school!!!
This might be your problem and it may not, but when I changed flexplates and engines on my Mav almost a year ago, it worked fine, but when I spun it over by hand there was a little grating sound once per revolution. I was confused, but I removed the access panel to look at the flexplate, and then spun it around. As it turned out, I had very slightly bent the plate that goes between the tranny and the engine so the balance weight on the flexplate slightly scraped it when it passed. I nicely pulled it out, away from the flexplate, and it fixed the minor bend, and the problem. I also adjusted the access plate as it was too close as well. This may or may not be the case, but it's a possibility. If it's not messing with the starter any more it might be something like this. Hope you find it soon. Have you tried cranking it over by hand to see it it only does it at a certain time during a revolution? This may help you narrow down the possibilities and direct you where to look. -Corbin
Hmmm, can it be that simple? I did a good job of bending mine plate also. I fiqured that the starter bolts and block would keep it straight.. I do not have an inspection plate, but, the plate could be bent arond the starter. The does not explain the first starter whos teeth I ground of completly! Scott
Heres a long shot . The return spring for the starter drive may be broken causing the drive to drift out and grate against the flexplate. It would be intermittant , louder when you accelerate and quieter when braking .
I"m not an automatic type guy so I'm just guessing here, but the only difference in your set up is the converter, right? maybe the studs are too long and are scraping against the spacer plate, or maybe the center of the converter does not sit flat against the flex plate so when the bolts are tightened you are warping the flex plate. If the drain plug does not line up to the hole, is it up against the flex plate to where it is keeping the converter from sitting flat. Tightening the mounts would also warp the flex plate.
Another Idea Have a helper with socket and ratchet, slowly turn the engine over at the balancer. You can then take a piece of 2x4 or other block and put a 1/8th hole in it. Take a 1/8th welding rod or such and insert it into the block, slide this as close to the flexplate as you can and watch as it rotates to see how much runout(bend) is in it. Also the bent spacer plate could be the culprit. Hate to suggest this, but may have to remove tranny and start over checking each piece. If the converter uses studs, these could cause the noise and possible flexplate runout as has been mentioned before by Mavaholic. just for info, did you use the same flexplate that was on it originally?
