I got me a t5 to put in my mav, the only thing I'm not sure about is the tranny crossmember and the driveshaft.
Well amazingly enough i just came here to post the same question. I've done some research on it in the past hour and here's what i've come up with: For the crossmember, you're going to need one custom fabbed. I have seen them out there for the mustangs, they run pretty pricey. Best bet would be to have someone make one up for you or do it yourself. Search through the old message boards and you can find some pictures to get a good idea. For the driveshaft, your old one (if you have a c4) is supposed to work. Might need to be shortened, you'll just have to play it by ear. Anyways, my tranny blew up again tonight for the (4th? 5th?) time, so i'm saying @#$@#%#$ and aside from that, i think i'm sick of messing with autos. I'm thinking a t5 is in order as well. I'll add to your question though--the main problem is the clutch linkage. I saw on the old message boards a lot of "well, i think this might work" and "couldn't you *hypothetically* do this?", but what i need is WHAT HAS BEEN DONE AND WORKED!! I have headers so i'm limited to a cable or hydraulic (and looking down at my headers, i think it might have to be cable since my headers like to eat things that get near them...like hydraulic clutch lines). Anyways, hope i've answered your question and added some new ones....
If I remember right the stock trans mount was pretty close, I just had to lower it to get clearence. What I did was cut the mounting pad for the trans and lower it 1/2" to 3/4" in the cross member then rewelded it. If I get a chance I'll take some pictures this week end. I have cable on my mustang and hydraulic on the maverick. The hydraulic was easier to install and I feel it works better than the cable. The cable is way cheeper but, it's alignment is more critical from the fire wall to the pedal. I have broken four cables now. Because as the pedal arcs it moves the cable up or down as well as in and out. My cable keeps braking where it rubs on the housing, I changed the angle this last time and I hope this cures the problem. If it doesn't I wiil be changing to a hydraulic unit. I think the t-5 is worth the minor problems of hooking it up. On the maverick we have 3.73 gears and the 3.35 first gear trans 95 5.0 so it's lots of fun to drive. The mustang has 3.40 rear gears and 2.95 first and a 351. I have yet to break the t-5 in the mustang and its been in the car sence 94 it also chassis dynoed 308 hp 376 tq. Corrected is 362 hp and 446 tq
Thanks for all the info Thomas. Pictures would be great if you can get 'em. As for the hydraulic, it sounds like that's your personal recommendation (i've been looking at the way the mustangs work the cable and it just doesn't look very feasible). Would you mind going into detail on the hydraulic? I.E. where to get the throwout bearing, what master cylinder you used, and how you hooked the (or a-) pedal up to it? I.E.--did you use the mav pedal or fashion something else? Thanks!
I used the stock crossmember on mine. Just installed it behind the mounting "horns" on the car using longer bolts and pieces of pipe between thecrossmember ears so they wouldn't collapse when the bolts are tightened. If your running an 8" rear your original 'shaft might fit. I had a custom made because the yoke on my 9" is longer.
I have a t-5 i was thinking about putting in my comet. I heard that thunderbird turbo coupes have a hydraulic clutch setup for the t-5. Will the 2.3 bell housing bolt up to the 302? I really haven't looked into it to much yet but was thinking that i would like to use that setup if i can get it to work.
Mine looks about the same as Thomas', but I fabricated brackets and used the hydraulic system from a Chevy S-10. I'm no machinist, so the brackets were obviously pretty easy to make. Think I had about $40 in the whole setup, and it works quite well.
You used the S10 master cylinder too? More info and pics please cause that hydraulic kit costs about $450 from Mustang outlets.
Yes, used the S-10 master cylinder as well. Kinda cool since the reservoir is unattached, so you can mount it anywhere and run a hose to the master. All my stuff came from the junk yard. When I pulled it, the master cyl came with a bracket. I bent it around and used some washers to get it to fit against the Mav's firewall. Drilled a 1 inch hole in firewall with hole saw and mounted it a couple of inches underneath the brake master cyl (I've got manual brakes). Drilled a hole in the clutch pedal, and stuck a bolt through that would go through the eye of master cyl rod. Ends up the clutch has a pretty short throw, a little stiffer than a stock 5.0 mustang, but not bad at all. Don't know about using Mustang pedals, but if they will bolt in, then I can't see why they wouldn't work. Bracket for slave is also modified from what was on it when I pulled it. I'd take some pics, but right now I'm in PA and car is in IL! Jason
Thanks for all the information everyone. I have only one question left: Any interference problems with headers? I have hedman hedders, just worried with the clutch fork mainly. Oh, and also....i may steal your S-10 idea...any idea what year it came off of? Thanks!
I will eventually change out my automatic for a T5 in my 77 and I will use the S10 set up also. Thanks for the idea.
I think it was from an '85 or so S-10. I imagine the same set up is used for many years. One other detail, I had the hydraulic hose lengthened as the stock one was a little too short. Went to a tractor supply place and they did it for $10. Bleeding the system is a little different and takes longer than a brake system. Took me a couple of days of coming out and pumping the pedal a few times and adding fluid. On the slave, there is what looks like a bleeder screw, but it's really not. It is actually the factory fill valve because they fill under pressure from slave to master so they don't have to bleed the system. Going from master to slave takes a lot longer, but it will eventually work. I'll try to take some pics when I'm back out in IL next month. Jason
