Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the transmission, bell housing and torque converter for a C4 on a 250 cu. in. six?
Torque Values Went through all my trans books and found no specific values for your application. The Hayne's Ford C4, C6 book gives these general specs. 7/16-14--40-55ft-lbs. Depending on your converter etc. 3/8-16---22-32ft-lbs or 3/8-24---27-38ft-lbs. Most parts books and retail automotive stores have a chart giving general torque values for specific bolt sizes etc. In the case of the bell housing bolts, I'm not sure you can get a torque wrench on some of the bolts anyway. Hayne's says to "Tighten Securely" I always use a dab of blue loctite on the threads just in case. Hope this sheds some light on the subject for you.
torque converter bolts Like you Old Guy I also used loktite on my converter bolts. Now I am trying to remove them to pull the engine and... Well, stripped one so far. Any ideas? Scott
My manual says: converter-to-flywheel nuts......23 to 28 Converter housing-to-case......................................28 to 40 Tranny-to-engine.....................................................23 to 33
Loctite on convertor fasteners I hope that most of you read my previous post correctly, the only bolts that I loctite are the bell housing to block and not the convertor. Using blue and not red loctite for subsequent removal. Whether the convertor has nuts or bolts, the use of red loctite is a no no, blue is the preferred if one must use any on them. These are on my racing engines only, normally a street application will not require loctite, they don't do it at the factory, in most cases, either. Have found that sometimes if there is accessability and no fire hazards etc., you can heat the bolt/nut and remove them. A squirt of cold water on the red hot bolt will sometimes shrink it so that it will come out. Caution, do not use those heated items over again, get new ones, the heating will alter the molecular properties of the steel and cause nasty problems later. Hope this helps a bit.
Good info, Dave. A guy pulled up to my house yesterday in his street/strip '99 Dakota R/T. The flex-plate and converter were making a helluva noise (you know the sound). I recommended he ease back to his house, check the convertor/flex-pate bolts and apply lok-tite to the bolts before a catastophe happened. And thanks for the reminder - I've gotta do that to mine (hopefully this week). BTW, Ron's extended cab's best in the quarter is a 10.6XX @ 135+ mph with a horrible 1.9 60'. He has a Novi putting out 15 lbs of boost AND running a dose of funny stuff. The truck weighs way in excess of 4200 lbs. sorry, back on topic - and Good Luck.
Flex Plate Don't know what ones they use in these newer Mopar's but the old ones had a very small triangle piece of thin steel. Talking to other Moparites found that in racing applications they were very prone to having the converter bolts come loose and make that tell tale racket. One old fellow I race with(72 yrs young) has a screaming 440 in a 56 Ford. He ended up puttin the red stuff on his after installing a new flex plate. No more trouble out of that torque monster.
I always use self locking nuts ( the ones that are kinda squished together on one side ) on my convertor bolts . As far as tranny to block goes I just give it a "good grunt " LOL
