I get conflicting information from the guys aroud here. Some say you have to have a cut off switch mounted on the back to go down the track, and some say you dont if you have an alternator. Anyone know for sure. I dont want to mount a switch on the back of my car.
Most race sanctioning bodies, NHRA, IHRA, others say that you have to have a master disconnect switch within plain sight at the rear of the car. The main purpose is so if the car rolls over, it can be quickly and easily shut off, that way there is no chance the fuel pump could pump fuel in the event of a fire.
I do believe the NHRA rule is that you only have to have a switch if the car runs 11.99 or quiker in the 1/4.
this may get alittle long but it is straight out of the nhra rulebook. (8-1) all batteries must be securely mounted. batteries may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. rear firewall of .024 " steel or .032" aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is relocated in trunk. in lieu of rear firewall battery may be located in a sealed .024 steel or .032 aluminum , or nhra accepted poly box. if sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented outside of body. relocated battery must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8" diameter bolts. j hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut. metal battery hold down straps mandatory. strapping tape prohibited. max 2 batteries or 150 pounds combined weight. (8-4) master cutoff-mandatory when battery is relocated.an electrical power cutoff switch must be mounted on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. this cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions. the off position must be clearly indicated with the word "off". if switch is push-pull type, push must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn it on.any rods or cables used must be minimum 1/8" diameter. plastic or keyed switches prohibited. sorry for the length, but i hope it clears things up for you.
bat in the trunk Graham is right. It also means a plate to insulate the pass compartment. Unless you need it then for room under the hood. Or special racing needs, leave it up front. Racing will beat up the battery fast also breaking the internal plates. This'll require a new battery about every two years or every year. Also if you do put it in the trunk, mount it with the polls toward the side and not the ends. Plates will last longer that way.
Thanks guys, I was hoping it was a 12 second or faster thing. Guess I wont be able to take mine down any strips.
Here is a suggestion I have seen. Mount the switch in the tail-light housing. Then you can take out the entire housing/switch and replace with a normal tailight when you are not running down the strip. This might be a little more difficult for mavaholic since he is using NOS Chevy tailights....unless you find another one to use to mount the switch in.
Looking for opinions.... I understand the rule but it really dosent make any sense to me. If you leave your battery in the front, you dont need the switch. Why? You could still flip a car, rip the battery right out, and the car conceivably could still run off the alternator. So why would you need a switch in the back and not the front. It seems to me all you really need is a heavy duty toggle switch that would kill power to the ignition module and fuel pumps. That would be alot easier to do. I was thinking of making a fold down panel that I could flip up under the valance when not at the track, which will be most of the time.
