Went to my buds house today,, he has a 4 car garage, In one space is a 69 Mustang, has prob 80,000 miles on it,, his Wifes car,, The cement floor under it is spotless not a drop of oil any place,, the next car is his pet project 73 Olds Cutlass, The floor under it is stained and has a basin under the engine,, Next car is his 2005 GMC 2500 4X4,, Looks like the Exon disaster under it,,, Now he is a Die Hard Chevy man,, and I had to ask,,, Whats with the oil slicks under the GM,s,,? His reply: Thats just sweat from all that Horse power,,, I never knew that,,, Hmmmmm
I like that! Wish it was dry under my car...still need to do some serious work to the transmission to get it to stop leaking. Never had any engine oil drips, ever.
My buddy was looking at my Ford Blue motor and said Chevy paints theres black to hide all the oil leaks,and he's a Chevy guy!
Damn, I'm going to have to remember that! I am now on my 5th C4 transmission between two Mavericks. I have yet to have one that doesn't leave a puddle of trans fluid under it.
You should rebuild one if you want a C4 that doesn't leak. When you replace the front and rear seals with new bushings in place and use the quad ring on the kick-down lever, and drill the relief hole for the manual lever when you replace it's seal and put new o-rings onthe dipstick and speedo insert, there is no place to leak anymore. The two places that leak on C4's are the kick-down shaft and the rear seal. If the rear seal is leaking it needs a new bushing and/or to have the slip yoke repaired with a speedy sleeve. If the yoke has a groove where the seal rides it needs a speedy sleeve. If there is no groove then it needs a new bushing and seal. I like to replace all the bushings in the C4's that I build. I haven't heard any complaints about them leaking.....
Yea, if you got a chevy and it 'aint leaking, you had better put more oil in it quick. If they 'aint leakin, they 'aint workin, (at least not for long)
The "Speedy Sleeve" is a very thin stainless bushing that is sold with its own installation tool. It slides over the outside of a shaft (or yoke) to provide a new surface for the seal to ride on. It is an inexpensive way to make a worn part serviceable for years to come. There is one mistake that people make when installing their transmissions that I should menstion. You have to lubricat the slip yoke and torque converter hub when you install them because they can run for over five minutes before they get any oil. I have seen new tiorque converter seals burned up (no sealing lip on the seal at all) after just a few minutes of running. They will leak almost from the start. My rebuilds are sent out with a heavy assembly lube (made for automatics) on the seals and a set of instructions for the installer to use Vaseline to lube the torque converter and slip yoke as they are installed. If they forget, at least the seals have a fighting chance with the lube that I use during the build.
