...kept me from making a better first-outing at the Roundup. My suspicions were confirmed when I finally got around to testing my 1-wire GM alternator. In hind-sight, during all my 'thrashing' I should've spent more time on that issue. I just figured my old Optima battery was finally giving up on me and wouldn't hold a charge. Anyway, I finally did the fundamental checking of the alternator by removing the "+" battery cable while the car was running. It spit, sputtered then died (even at high rpm's). I took the alternator to Oh Really's and had it tested. Confirming my suspicion that the GM "one-wire" alternator was not putting out any current (actually my tester showed radical numbers even at idle). Anyway, it just so happened I brought along a jumper wire with me and hooked it to one of the two terminals that weren't being used to the "main" or "+" lug out. It then showed that the alternator was putting out 13+ volts (at the rpm he was running it at). Got home, made a 'real' jumper, put the alternator back on and am getting 14+ output volts now at higher rpms (13.3V @ idle). I sure wished the guy who built and sold me the alternator would've put the jumper on, or at least informed me that I needed to do that in order for it to work correctly. Next obstacle: Dyno Tune on Diablo Performance chip
Sounds like my luck with the not so tuff chrome alternators 100amp…..found mine was locking up ,,,,not sure how long it was locked up …..when I put it on the trailer getting ready for round up I noticed it was idling very low and was not revving as fast as normal :16suspect … guess that was why …looking at one of the MSD sounds like there made very well
My FIRST electrical gremlin during the process of getting all my shtuff ready for the Roundup was found the evening BEFORE leaving out. A shop (that I paid VERY handsomely to do the electrical work) mounted my MSD, RPM Window Switch, and EECIV to an aluminum plate that they tucked underneath the passenger side dash. That sounded like a good idea to me. The only thing I didn't like was the plate was held in place by two Cleekos. That always bothered me. I'd prefer to have it held at the corners with 4 sheet metal screws at least. When we put the chip in the EEC, I had to remove the plate to access the EEC. Once we put the chip in, the car wouldn't start. We checked the MSD, was on the phone with VatoZone to see if they had any EECIV's in stock to replace the one we though we "fried" etc. By accidently bumping the plate to the dash, we found out they grounded all those electrical components THROUGH THE CLEEKO'S! It sparked right in my buddy's face! If the battery shut-off hadn't been in the "On" position, I might not have even made the Roundup. (I sure hope my buddy finds those donor eyeballs he's needing now) Anyway, that was just another hurdle we had to jump over to get the car to even start. I'm sure there'll be more "demons" until I finally obtain that "no-maintenance" race car! ---------- Ed, I'm not sure when I'll be going to the races again. I gotta recovery financially from the trip to the Roundup first. I'll give you a shout when I'm ready again. ------- They 'ought to be". I have the 6AL. it retails for $425. I thought we'd fried it too! You can usually find a used one for half price. Or go with a used 6A ($320 new - doesn't have the rev limiter option) for around $150. Good luck!
"doesn't have the rev limiter option" ...and this is something you need ? don't you need to get it started before you worry about reving it too ? ...Ricks friend frank...
I got a 6AL used for a hunert bucks locally. Coil came with it too. Look around, or on ebay, they are buyable. Dan
What you actually have is a "three-wire" alternator. It needs a remote sensing feedback loop for the voltage regulator to work. "One-wire" alternators only have one wire (imagine that). Good explaination here: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml
Nice article. Thanks. I think I'll print it out and give it to the guy who sold me my 'one wire' alternator. :16suspect Dennis:
