It's been roughly ten years since I started on this project and it's a project! It's a 1972 white two door Comet with a 302, power steering and air. My dad bought it new in 72 and used as his work car for 20 years before parking it with 60K miles. All it needed was a new starter! This forum has been fantastic over the years in walking me through everything I've done thus far. I am reaching a new milestone in doing some work on the trans and bottom half of the engine and figured it would be best that I start a build thread as I am doing a push to get her back on the road by end of year and I'll have lots of questions. What "I've" done so far (I've only taken it to the shop once and I regret it!): * Found and installed a GT hood scoop! * swapped front drums to disc * Edelbrock performer intake with 600 cfm carb * Doug thorley shorty headers * Dual exhaust with cut outs /Flow master 50 delta series * Petronix distrib and coil * Replaced gas tank with Spectra tank * Found and replaced a front grill * Sport mirrors * Power Master Alternator * Borgenson Power steering pump * New wheels/tries - Torq Thrust D's * New starter * Edelbrock water pump * Champion 3 core radiator with Spal fan Next up: * New Hughes performance transmission * 165 ARF heads * cam...still need to determine * block work. It's all original and has never been touched. * with the engine out, I need to repair the cowls * weld in new floor pan. old pan has been cut out already. It's a lot of work to do in three months....but end of year sounds nice! More to come as I make progress/have questions.
I’ll throw some pics and video up when I get home. Back from the speed shop. 90 day back log from Hughes transmissions for their C4s. Do most folks stick with the C4 or switch to AOD with a 350hp setup?
If you’re going to drive it on the street I’d say AOD, but for best results I suggest 3 pedals and a T5.
Here's a link after I had the exhaust installed: Here she is early on, right after I got her running.
If you’re going to drive it on the street I’d say AOD...(not AODE) there's a Guy on here that makes a crossmember for the swap...
I am going to "try" and table all of my engine dreams until I get the cowl repaired. Need to focus on that and finding a donor cowl or replacement. For the engine... I can't squash the idea of just stroking it while I have everything apart... but don't want to be in the danger zone on the block. As I am sending the trans off to Hughes would a 2500 stall be pretty safe to work on a 302 or 347? Anyone know of a donor cowl or where to get a replacement from? Damage is pretty bad.
Some of the guys here have put a cover over the cowl vents, essentially "deleting" the problem. Some do repairs prior to the delete. It is merely something to consider as an option now that the cowl is on your plate as the main course. The cowl delete looks good in my opinion, and keeps junk out of there permanently.
Do some research on that....I think I read somewhere (notice read, not did...lol) 302's like more stall than a 347, but either way your rear end gear ratio will need to be in synch with it all, and posi of some sort, or you will not reap the potential given to your engine. I can say from experience though, that as you get to 300HP a mild speed itch gets scratched nicely. Of course, My speed itch has a budget fence built around it though.
Did they make 72 Comet’s with 335 gears? Seen this on my axle. Also, when I had my exhaust put it, I went with 2.25” pipes the whole way through. Assume this now hurts me if I am doing 165 AFRs?
Most had 2.78 or 3.00 gear ratios, I dont know what that number is. If the factory tag is still on your rear end, it will be under a bolt on the diff, and it will have the ratio stamped on it. If you raise the rpm at which your motor makes power, (which usually includes higher compression too) running stock gear ratios forces the engine to pull your car through its weak RPM range for a greater distance. Getting a high stall converter will get RPMs up off the line, but the stock gears will not allow the quick climb into the RPM range where your peak power will be after modification. And this is just a discussion of gears. I have read about this stuff for a few years, have a book on small block Fords, read other forums, searched the internet, etc. etc. I have not built a motor yet. I am running what came in my car, and will do a mild cylinder head upgrade soon. Horsepower is basically governed by how much fuel mixture your engine can use. Fuel is power. Cylinder size + heads + cam + intake + exhaust all play a role, but so do things like port sizes, mixture velocity, exhaust velocity, and an engines ability to rev quickly increases fuel mixture use. If you carefully build a street engine, you can have a great deal of useable power at RPMs where driving is done. It will not be a killer at the track, but still fast. If you want a killer at the track, then driving on the street with it will be less fun. You might know all this stuff already.......I just do not want to see you spend a pile of money and end up having to spend more to get what you really want.......and part of the problem is knowing what you want! And knowing what you want may require some experimenting? Just be patient and do a lot of reading. And keep asking for help! Many guys in here have been playing with these cars as toys and drivers for many, many more years than the likes of me. Oh, BTW, There is a car in this forum that runs in the 12s with 165 heads and 2 1/4 exhaust.......http://mmb.maverick.to/garage/1972-mercury-comet-2-door.4/ Building one like his will take awhile and require attention to detail....plus a bit of dough.....but that is what I can tell you about AFRs and 2.25 pipes........You will need headers too....better read up on those.
@stumanchu Thanks for this info. I love the hotrock build. I am using Dough Throley shorty headers now. I called to order the trans yesterday and they needed a lot of build info that I had not decided on...but this is what I am thinking: * Heads - AFR 165's * Cam - Com Cam CL 31-246-3 - http://www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy-230-236-hydraulic-flat-cam-for-ford-351w.html#tab2.tab2 * Stal - 2500 * Gears - 3:55 This weekend it's windshield and fender removal to get started on the cowls.... ugh.
Is your performer intake a performer RPM? If it is just a performer, it will be restrictive. I have a stock converter, so I can only point you in the direction of what others have experienced. Also note that the Hot rock car replaced a lower stall converter with a 3500. Tom said.........At 350 Hp, a 302 will be rather rumpy and require a 3000 or so stall converter and probably at least 3.50 rear gear. I dont know how these things behave in traffic....if you live in S Cal you need to know that too.
This is great stuff. I feel like just copying Hot Rock's engine build ! My intake is a performer and my carb is only 600 CFM. This car is not for the track, it's just a hobby drive on the weekend car. Is there a downside on being restricted with the intake/carb aside from not maximizing performance?
