You should be able to interchange, so long as M/C was for Disc Brakes, as it has a larger reservoir for disc brakes. Others have even used their original drum to drum M/C when swapped to disc and worked for them. New M/C's for our Mav/Comet with disc brakes are cheap enough, so IMO I would just stick with one for our cars......... Others have used newer M/C's that are more compact, with plastic reservoir's, from like a Ford Ranger or similar, I believe bolt mounting patterns to firewall are the same. David
How about if you modified the firewall like the 98 Explorer has for it hood hinges and shocks and use the Explorer set up? yes it would mean cutting the firewall and hood, but wouldn't it work?
I suppose you could modify it to work, but until you actually start fitting/working on it.........if one had a parts car, would not be a problem, you hate to ruin a good hood, not to mention your firewall if something does not work out! Probably would have to reinforce both firewall and hood or make some sort of bracket to attach from OEM hood mounting to Explorer hinge? Good Luck! David
I was asking because the master cyl. in my Mav. was never hooked up once swap was done and fluid leak out and has been like that for a few years so thought I would replace while I am building it and the mustang II master cyl. is readily available and only $35.00 compared to the $85.00 + shipping Melvins charges... Thanks for the info....
M/C bores for disc brakes should be 15/16 to 1 1/8", larger the bore, higher up the pedal is and firmer the pedal pressure. Smaller the bore, lower the pedal sits to the floor and softer the pedal pressure......... David
You ought to be able to go to most auto parts chains and get a rebuilt Mav/Comet manual disc master cylinder. It would be from the later years. You will need to use the existing brake pedal pushrod with the new MC, and it will need to be shortened, or your pedal will be quite high in the travel. This is detailed in posts on the site here, so a search will give you better details. Many folks use the existing combination valve (like a Proportioning Valve, but different somehow?). I added an adjustable Wilwood valve because the rear tires started locking up a bit early, so this calms them down. I would try it without this extra step first, because I have a pretty big stagger fitment in my tire combo. If your front and rear tires are closer in size, it may be unnecessary.
Dyent, Good info on bore size vs pedal height. Interesting. Might be able to go without shortening the pushrod if sizing is right.
Jeff: Just to clarify, pedal height at rest is the same, with larger bore(s) when brakes are applied, pedal effort is greater (firmer) and will stay higher up from the floor, with smaller bore when brakes are applied, pedal effort is less (softer) but will sink closer to the floor. I personally prefer the "firmer" higher up pedal rather than the "softer/mushy" feels like the pedal is going to hit the floor feeling! David
Yes thanks for the clarification and the help, my tire size is going to be different front & rear and I was thinking of using the Ford Performance adjustable proportioning valve on mine.... And yes I found that the 74 Mav. manual M/C is available it just has to be ordered from warehouse... So will order it and other parts and get the stopping portion put together..
Mostly anything swaps. The were some differences in '70 that will not swap, otherwise most any part from year to year will swap with another. Parts that are engine specific only swap with similar engine. 170/200 6cyl parts swap but many parts for 250 are engine specific. While there are exceptions, most parts for 302 are same, even if it came from a Torino or Mustang. All the steering linkage in my Comet originated in a '76 Maverick.