5.0 swap ?? and general disussion and advice

I'm about to venture into the same realm. I've just gotten my grubby hands on a '93 5.0 LX automatic, that had a run-in with a telephone pole. Got the whole car. I'll try and keep you updated as I hope you will do for us. I also will have some questions along the way I'm sure.

 

So, what do I have to do? Let's say I'm putting the AOD up with a '69 302. What flywheel do I get? Is there a special flexplate that someone makes?

 

Probably gonna need a 164 tooth 28oz flexplate ... pretty sure AOD is 164 tooth ... nothing special about that ....

 

For the 69 and AOD I think Anderson Ford Motorsport and other aftermarket companys have 28oz flexplates for the conversion.

 

When I pulled the c-6 in my 71 F100 351w to put in an AOD I used a flex plate from a late 80's F150 with a 5.8 and AOD. Got it from Advance Auto for around $40.
I d0 believe the AOD uses an AOD specific flex plate though. I help my c-6 flex plate back to back with the AOD flex plate and everything was the same except where the convertor snout goes through into the crank. The c-6 flex plate would not let the snout go through far enough to engage the crank.
clint

 

Don't waste your time with the lincoln motor unless it's from a mark 7. Be sure the motor is a HO motor. Mostly, the mustangs and mark 7's got those motor's. the HO and NON ho are entirely diffferent, and you'll want the power of the HO.

IMO, it's easier to build power with an efi car. So many carb'd guys are scared of the efi engines. They're more reliable, more efficient, and can take mods like nothing. Bolt on a supercharger, whatever, with virtually no constant tuning and messing with that a carb'd engine needs.

The best engine to grab is out of a 96-01 ford explorer. they got the last of the 5.0 engines. they came from the factory with the iron gt40 heads (96 and early 97) and the gt40p heads from 97-01. The efi intake for those flows nearly the same as the gt40 intake (it IS a gt40 lower with a hi flow upper) Those engines can be had at nearly the same cost as an 87-95 mustang engine ($600-$800 from a yard) and you'll find them with less miles. Swap in your pickup, pan, camshaft, and valvesprings, and you'll have nearly 300 REAL horses for cheap.

just be prepared to handle the gt40p header issues if you go with that engine. Best of luck!

 

I am going to swap to a 302 also. Again the motor is EFI but I think it will be cheaper to go carb. CAn I take the bell housing off the aod and put it on the stock 1970 with a 200ci.

 

My thoughts exactly,go with the '87 mustang motor/c4/carbed.

 

Actually,they don't,but they are much easier to deal with when doing this kind of swap.My Comet has a c4 w/shift kit,it works great,but a t-5 would be faster,more fun,and would get better mpg out on the highway.Just costs so much to change all that stuff out though..

 

I am going to chime in and ask a question so clearly that I hope my brain will stop swimming and not explode

Just bought for $200 ( and the guy is delivering it Saturday) a 5.0 out of a 90 Mustang
It had an AOD tranny , which I am not buying. AS I understand it my c-4 Auto that is currently attached to a 250 has the right bell housing already, i just need a new flexplate right? which one, is there something about an input shaft I need to worry about, I am just trying to clarify as I have now settled in on what I will do jsut need to know what parts i need to save to buy, I already know I need to get a front sump set up for it, and apparently I need a new flexplate, which one, who has it and what application do I buy it for ? A Maverick 302 or a Mustang 302 with a c-4? and what years? I am pretty close to deciding to get a carb intake combo and keep the EFI stuff for when I get rich.. if I get rich.

 

You need a 50oz imbalance 157T flexplate ... My guess is no car probably ever came with this flexplate but they are available to buy aftermarket ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ford-SFI-Flexpl...ryZ33732QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

That is the guy I bought my flexplate from on ebay, good price, fit perfectly.

I don't think there was any issue on input shaft, at least not on my 302-to-5.0 swap. Might be on the 250-5.0 swap.

Just needed a 50 oz 157 tooth flexplate, and a 50 oz harmonic balancer, everything else bolted right up.

Also, if it is not a roller block, buy the roller conversion and a set of lifters. Not too expensive and it will wake that motor up like an HO.

 

EFI can make power, but wiring is a mess and tuning is a laptop away but carb set ups are far easier to maintain and trouble shoot, to much to go wrong with EFI

i know a bit about EFI , i have 95 tbird with a built 4.6 and only way to get proper tuning is dyno tuning which runs about $500-600 thats with tuning and labor it is NOT cheap to run EFI

 

conversely, in my opinion, carb is not as reliable, and much more work to keep in tune, and to keep running properly.

Aside from any power potential either way, Efi has it. It's a ton more reliable, and is consistent every single day. the wiring is honestly not that bad. the 5.0 efi engines were very simple. Not to many sensors, and easy to learn.

as far as tuning, you won't really need that until you start pushing 300+ hp, and at that, it's still not required. I run about 300 hp on my 5.0 mustang with the stock computer, and no tune.

Once you get into tuning, pick up a tweecer, it allows you to plug in with your laptop, and retweek all the factory eec IV computer settings. that begins to be a ton of fun, I love efi!!

 

IMO,carbs are more forgiving(a stock 302 will run with an 850 DP,although a bit rich.)EFI is pretty exact,get the wrong fuel/air ratio and it freaks.Never seen a carbed car on the side of the road because of a sensor.Not to say I haven't been there w/a stuck float,blown power valve,etc.But I got it home under it's own power.More work to keep in tune?I put a holley 600 on my Comet,it's been there for over 8 years,haven't turned a screw on it since the initial fuel/air mix & idle adjustment.