Hey guys,I am new to the site and Mavs but am picking up a "72 Grabber this weekend and it's 4 wheel drums.I am wondering will the late Maverick disc brake spindles work on the '72? If it will that would make me feel a lot better but if not no problem I'll just push harder.Thanks for the help and what a great site!!!
ya, you can swap all the later disc stuff over and put a 5 lug rear up too at least so your bolt pattern all matches
The disc brakes have larger hubs so if your going to run stock wheels, you will need a set off of a disc brake car as well.
are you talking about the spindles? I know where there is a disc brake car and want to make sure i get everything I need.
All you really need is the spindles. It is highly recommended that you buy rotors, calipers, pads, bearings, seals, and hoses new. Most auto parts stores sell the parts needed. I also recommend replacing the master cylinder and proportioning valve too. Otherwise you may have fantom brake problems when doing the conversion.
If you have a donor car. Get the entire assembly. Just knock them loose at the upper and lower ball joints. This way you know how they go together and have cores for the calipers if they need replacement. Grab the outer tie rod ends as they will have have the correct taper.
okay,the tie rod end one I would not have known and would have figured out the hard way.As far as the master cylinder is there a manual master cylinder that will create the correct stroke and pressures? I would love to keep them manual but still have the disc's kind of having my cake and eating it too ( I never really understood that one I mean what else are you going to do with cake)
I used a manual setup on both my Mav's with great success. You don't need power brakes to stop. I don't really like them on an older car anyway because they usually end up being problematic and in the way. I used a master cyl from an 85 or 6 T-bird with the turbo. It is aluminum and has an 1 1/8" bore. Good and heavy duty for the shorter stops. You will definitely need a proportioning valve from a disc brake car for the proper stopping power distribution. The way it was explained to me was that the drum prop valve has a different setting for the distribution to the front brakes and holds pressure on the front wheel cylinders which, in turn, will destroy your disc setup over a very short period of time. Like I said earlier, most if not all the parts you need will come from an auto parts store. Some of the stuff they will have to order, but they always seem to get it fast.
power brakes I installed power drum brakes on my 1973 comet using the power booster from a geo the bolt pattern at firewall is the same I used a old master cyl.Ihad I dont know what it is from I know it is a dual cyl. you have to adj. the rod at the barke pedal it was vary easy to install and had lots of room under the hood paid 40.00 for the booster and about 6,00 for naw fittings at the master because I had to go from sae to metric took me about 5 hrs to complete the switch and they work great harry I used some stanliss steel camping plates and put them between the wheel and the drum painted a lookalike calipar on the plate and put black dots on the plates it now looks like I have 4 wheel drilled rotors disk brakes on my ride I get lots of complements at shows harry
When I changed over to front discs, I got a non-power disc brake master cylinder for a 77 Maverick from a regular ol' parts store, brand new. I had to wait a day for it to show up from their warehouse, and it wasn't expensive ... $20-30. I don't recall where I got it, it was 10 years ago. You will have to shorten the pushrod from the brake pedal a bit... other than that, it is bolt in.
That sounds reasonable.I am going to make a drag car out of it and don't want power brakes.The car is already manual brakes so it should be a bolt on deal.I am however going to have to put it on hold ofr a while since I am being relocated to Japan for three years.But I still need to know what I need to make it happen when I do get back.Thanks.
