Upper control bushings

Can I convert to this style using the origional arms? Pros cons?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moog...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f7863988

 

I believe you can, that's a kit to get rid of the original style shaft. Pros would be no more squeaks from the shaft when it needs grease and the cons would be more flex in the suspension from the rubber and the rubber will fail eventually giving you some slop.

 

they fit fine in the stock arms

 

Rockauto sells em for $47.79.

 

I've been considering this kit as well. I did the Shelby drop, so I can't grease the uppers without removing the arm(zerks don't fit with arm dropped 2", even 90* ones) My understanding is they are for the later Granada and once you install them, you can't go back to the screw on style(may not be a bad thing) due to the larger bushing size. I'm not for sure about that, maybe someone here has run into this one before. They list both kits for our apps on the O'Rielly's webpage.

btw: if you go this route, remember that rubber bushings need to be tightened at ride height to prevent binding or twisting beyond their limits when put into operation.

 

I used them on my 72 Comet GT. Just need a press to install the bushings.

 

That's good to know, thanks.

I like to tighten them while the wheels are hanging so it can lift the front
I am thinking that you can't go back because the arm is threaded and pressing a bushing into it will cause damage to the threads.. but not sure what the real reason is. Seems I can go back as long as I get the metal bushing in and tack it in place. The shaft is different so that would be changed back anyway. This is some of what I am looking for as far as conversation to pros and cons

Done many with and without a press on and off the vehicle .. This one would be done off, and in my case, with a BFH and a pipe or vise

 

Yep, that's why. But "threaded" is a loose term for it, you'll see once you get the old ones out.

 

I have replaced the threaded style many times. I know that they screw into the arm and the shaft at the same time and must be centered to the shaft all at the same time.. The arm threads have a tendency to strip and that's when I tack it on two sides. The ones I am considering to do are in my sons 75, which I have not had apart before. So what I am thinking is that once I do convert, I will not have good threads. Maybe I should grind and hone the holes to ensure a good seat? Too much thinking? lol

 

With my MOOG ones, the instructions make note that these are a re-design and to not do anything to the holes. Just press in the new bushings. Once the retaining bolts are installed with the cupped washers, the bushings cannot come out. And they cannot "go too far", you only press them in until the bushing shoulder hits the arm. I think you are fine just cleaning up the arm and pressing them in. That's what I am gonna do.

And its not big deal if you want to go back to the old style, there are plenty of control arms around. I don't think anyone who has installed these has gone back to the older style. You can get new bushings all day long.

 

Thanks. Sounds like I will be doing them soon. My son thinks the front end is falling out, he wants to hurry

 

Running these now on one of my cars. Less shock transmitted when hitting bumps, no squeaks, no worries about greasing the arms, saved me about $50 a side and allowed me to run the shelby drop without clearance concerns.

Over all a win. Combine these with rollerized spring perches, new rubber isolation pads for the springs and new hardware for the shocks will give you a new appreciation for a 50 year old suspension design.