Heck of a time getting springs compressed and into position.

What is the easiest spring compressor to work with?

I have just spent 2 hours playing with one of these...



and took two separate tries at it, and almost got it in, but I couldn't turn the spring to pop it into it correct orientation because of the big duckbill hitting everything.

I have had luck using these on my old suspension...



...and might be willing to buy a set from JEGS/Summit for $30 or so.

But I have access to these...



Would these work for me? Which would be easiest to work with?

 

these are the most expensive, but also the easiest to use:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Be...1018412965&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

 

how do you get the plates off the bottom/top after installed?

 

The plates don't go on the very top and bottom, somewhere in the middle.

 

Just used them to change four springs in my sons jeep - Lifted Jeep. Still needed a second person, a three foot pry bar and a boot. But autozone lends them for free with a deposit so you cant go wrong trying.

 

I have used both styles of spring compressors, as posted above, by Scooper.

The set with the single set of hooks and the duck bill plate thing, is the one I liked best.

Once you have removed springs a couple of times, it is easier to orient the tool parts to get them re-installed.

Visually orient the spring with the open coil, indexed to the spring saddle, prior to installing the compression tool. Make sure that the tool has the top plate installed on the open side so that you can pull it out.

If you get lost, google the procedurer on U-tube. Literally everything has been filmed that you can think of.

 

Have you tried it this way?

 

i've used the middle and the top ones before. however i feel the bottom ones work best with struts off the car and i think these would be hard to pull out of the shock tower.

the middle one i think will be better for the maverick set up. used these many times!

or better yet cut them more and they will go right in without a tool. mine do lol!

 

just as daniel posted - the plates go in roughly 1 1/2 coils from each side.

i was able to install the springs with both fender and coil cover in place. and they also give you a nice feeling of security the way they are designed...

 

I'm having trouble recalling the sequence now, but I used BOTH types to get mine done. Started compresson with one style (maybe the paired screw type on the outside of the spring) to get the single screw type mounted down lower on the spring to get enough compression to install the spring.

Got both types from AutoZone on their loaner program.

 

Is the lower contoll arm attached to the spindle? There have been times I had to pop the spring in at the bottom onto the arm and then lift the arm/bj into the spindle.

 

I took the lower control arm off the spindle, and tried to lift the spindle up to compress the spring, but with the engine out, I just lift up the entire side of the car.

None of my welds are breaking, yet...

 

I've only used the middle style. Just make sure they're not worn out. The set I used was old and worn, and you really had to be careful or they'd pop off. Gets tense and exciting easing the spring down into the tower, not knowing if it is gonna stay put or not!

 

I think working with compressed springs is scary anyway! I cut my last set down so they would fit right in without a compressor, and R&C says these "should" but I am having to compress from 13" down to about 8 or 9 inches to get them to go in.

Maybe if engine was in, I could slap them in, jack up the spindle, and bolt it all up, but with engine out, front end is way too light.

I might just wait until the engine is in and put them in.

I really don't like handling compressed springs...

 

I sweat alot when I am handling them lol..