10 HP Briggs and Stratton, only runs on CHOKE. Whassup?

Is this like yours?
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-fROtibEvE"]Briggs and Stratton 10hp Generator Carburetor Repair - YouTube[/nomedia]

 

I think the engine speed is important to maintain 60 cycle AC power. Wouldn't disable the governor.

 

Yep, same carb (different model generator). That jet is fine on mine. Everything looks fine, now.

But won't hold steady idle with that governor bouncing around.

It runs with the choke off, now.

 

Had to disable it or figure out how to adjust it correctly. Otherwise, it wouldn't hold a steady rpm and was bouncing 120 volts +/- 15 or 20 whole volts. Now it stays right within half a volt of 120.

 

Right. Just sayin', when you're using the generator I think it will be important to have the governor working too. Otherwise, the engine RPMs will change too much with electrical load and it won't maintain 60 cycles. Some equipment, e.g., resistance heating or lights, wouldn't mind if cycles are off buy I expect some equipment might not work so well its not putting out pretty close to 60 cycles.

Not pretending to be an expert here, just something I'd be concerned about. Think you need to get rid of the surge with the governor enabled.

 

That is why I am asking. I wasn't sure if rpms would change enough to mess up my output if I put a load on it.

I guess I can test it, but all I have are shop fans, don't pull a hard load.

 

If you put any significant electrical loads on the generator I think you'll see a very noticeable drop in RPMs without the governor working.

My generator, with direct drive from the motor, has a tag that calls for engine speed of 3600 RPM. Does yours say what RPM it wants? Got any way to measure the one-banger RPM?

Or, looks like one of these would tell you what Hz (cycles/sec) your generator is putting out. http://www.powermeterstore.com/p4578/killawatt_ez.php

There should be someone on here that could say how sensitive different devices would be to cycles. I wonder if something like a TV that scans at a given frequency would work if power was far from 60 cycles.

 

An old style CRT will definitely let you know if you are not at a close enough frequency. And it doesn't take too much to figure out how far off you are with one.

Digital TV will just be weird and probably wouldn't power up.

 

I figured I would put a volt meter in one of the plug holes, and keep adjusting the rpms to keep it at 120v.

Just takes a screwdriver to adjust the speed. If i dont figure out what is wrong, I may just do a cable throttle.