1975 maverick starting problems

yeah my dad said he is going to look at it today. he said we will check the wires and if absolutely necessary replace the wire harness. we got some test leads yesterday to go from the battery straight to the coil and it didn't fire up

 

If that ign module is kaput, could connect 500v to it and it ain't gonna start.

 

so the igniton module could cause no spark at the coil? I keep telling my dad we need to buy it but he won't listen

 

This is true. In my days I've seen maybe 2-3 bad resistor wires. And each time the wire was somehow cut or broken by some fluke. They rarely just fail. Sadly though, mice LOVE wire insulation.

Also. His test is mostly correct. You should get power to the coil from the starter solenoid when cranking, and power from the ignition switch on run. So if it has power on crank, but not on. It's the switch, feed wire or fuseable link. If you've got none at all. There's more problems we haven't found yet. If your coil has power on crank and run but still no spark. I'd start checking the Duraspark module. Is it getting power? Ground? They are famously unreliable.

Another rarity is the pickup coil in the distributor could be bad. Seen it only twice, both times the insulation was rotting off the wires to it and it was shorting out on the housing under the cap. Both instances caused an intermittent ignition failure.

Also, dumb question. But, is the rotor in the distributor turning with the engine? A stripped distributor gear, though rare is a thing. And then you definitely won't have spark. Even if everything else is perfect.

 

With a Duraspark system, ign module was #1 cause of no spark(probably #2, #3, #4 & #5). Sometimes whacking a few times with screwdriver will bring it back to life, at least temporarily.

Pickup in dist sends pulse to module, in turn activating module's coil trigger circuitry(usual failure point), thus firing coil. Without operating module, the dist & coil are useless.

 

What were saying is, you really ought to buy one anyways. And if the one on the car isn't bad. Now you have a spare at 4 am on a 2 lane in BFE. Not if, but WHEN it fails. All of us running Duraspark carry a spare module.

 

ok thanks. maybe I can explain it to my dad. he is getting frustrated so I will tell him eventually. Hope this is our issue. Kinda weird if we got it started once then now it is dead. But it is pretty old.

 

ok thanks. maybe I can explain it to my dad. he is getting frustrated so I will tell him eventually. Hope this is our issue. Kinda weird if we got it started once then now it is dead. But it is pretty old.

 

Hello JB!

Have your dad read this post yet? If not maybe he should! More information in this post than any.

If your dads like me at 54, i have problem listening to those with no experience at all.

Might wanna have him sit down and do a lil reading.

Maybe you should do the wrencing too. That how you learn too! SERIOUS

And i took you calling me a Dick the other day as a compliment.

 

yeah sorry about that. also yeah I put the starter solenoid on and the voltage regulator. my dad is 40 and won't read this even though he told me to come on here. I will have to get him to buy the icm. Also this is my money I am spending.

 

You,re a cool guy JB.

Every attempt at starting have your phone on record.

The Best feeling ever when it does!

But kick dad aside and get your hands dirty!

 

40 eh? Could be my two daughter's little brother...

 

yeah he just gets annoyed sometimes. he has had 3 mavericks, 2 mustangs, a sunbird. an old toyota, and now he and my mom own just the 3 explorers

 

This is about my 1975 ford maverick 250 straight 6. So we replaced the coil, coil connector, voltage regulator, starter solenoid, fuel filter, fuel pump, and ignition control module and it still won't start. The battery is fully charged and the spark plugs are good. I am just so confused. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Assuming we're still talking about a "cranks, no start" situationThe good news is now you have a spare ignition module.

The bad news is it sounds like you're right where I am on my 74.

STEP 1.

With the key on, positive power wire to the coil unplugged. Test that wire with a DVOM preferably, but a good test light may work. Connect to this wire and see if the coil is receiving voltage.

Is there voltage?
No. Check Fuseable link and ignition switch.
Yes.
STEP 2
Unplug the 2 lead connector from the Duraspark module. Should be a red and a white wire. With the key on, test these wires for voltage. The white should have battery voltage and the red 9 ish.
Is there voltage at these wires?
No. Trace and check wires for open, check ignition switch.
Yes. Check distributor ground. (Black wire from module to distributor) Check the pickup coil wird to the distributor. Check the pickup coil wires inside the distributor, are they shorted?

If you don't have at least a test light, or even a DVOM (digital volt ohms meter) you need to get one. One that will work can be had at harbor freight for less than $5. But I recommend meters starting in the $30 range.

You CANNOT properly diagnose electrical problems like this without one.


And also. You can replace every ignition component, but if mice or time has damaged the wiring. The harness must be repaired or it will never work.