Yeah it ran when we first got it by putting gas in the carb. we replaced the fuel pump/ fuel filter because of no fuel. Then it wouldn't start. So we replaced the coil, coil connector, starter solenoid, voltage regulator, today the ignition control module. Still won't start. My dad is going to try and swap the way he wired the coil connector tomorrow to see if he did it wrong but I know he did it right because he wired it exactly as the old one. We will definitely need to get a multimeter to see what is going on.
Option 1. May as well Throw a new distributor on now. That magnetic pickup thingy could be bad. Theres is a way to test and replace ifneed replacing, you and pops can google! And yes you need test equipment to test Its the blue or black thingy with wires inside distributor Option 2. You can go back to points distributor, much simpler to maintain, troubleshoot and repair on side of rd. Probally what you wish you had now. Option 3, GM HEI if available for I6, only 1 wire and you,re done. Easy enough for a beginner to install.
Did you get the correct ignition module? Did it have the same color connector as the previous one? The one below is blue. There are about 7 different colors and some are not interchangeable, though they can be plugged in. My 75 had a green module and blue would plug into the harness but it would not work.
we got the right ignition module. we will get a multimeter. distributor should be good because it started when we first got it by putting gas in the carb.
If you don't have a multimeter/DVOM yet, your better off closing the hood and going inside where it's warm. Turn on the PlayStation and wait untill you have one. It sounds to me like you had spark, but lost it after a random part change. The most likely culprit being a brittle Fuseable link on the starter solenoid. It's the wire that's bendable with the funny soft rubber like a gumby toy. If it were badly corroded. When disturbed while changing the starter solenoid it could have broken inside, breaking the circuit. When you get a meter, and test the coil voltage. That's the first place I'd look next if you don't have power at the coil.
we had replaced everything else before the solenoid so idk. we will get a multimeter eventually. probably just going to put the car in the shed for the winter. not too worried about it. it is a project so it will get done when we have the time.
I was talking to one guy and he said he replaced everything like I did and then he finally replaced the pickup coil in the distributor. do you think that could be my problem about the no spark to the ignition coil?
Joseph, seriously. Before you replace anything else, please get a meter and let us help you diagnose this problem. If you throw yet another random part at it, and it again doesn't work, it will only discourage you even more. And at your expense. I'm almost certain you have a wireing issue, not a component failure. Yes. The pickup coil could possibly be bad. But first you will need a meter to test it. Did you mess with it before you lost spark? No? Then it's probably fine. However as I mentioned earlier, the few times I've ever seen one fail. It was due to the insulation rotting or rubbing off the leads and them shorting out inside the distributor. Because you had spark before, if the wires to the pickup coil don't have any exposed copper, breaks or shorts rubbing to the casing, I would rule it out for now. Find out if your ignition system is even getting power first.
If he gets meter at HF, may as well pickup one of their circuit testers from $3.00 to $10.00, make one trip do. Those two items are essential in trouble-shooting electrical issues. Guessing at where your getting power/voltage rarely solves those issues.
I’ve never had any luck with circuit testers, always use a multi meter. I’m just pointing out that you don’t have to break the bank to buy test equipment.
I agree on making the point, not breakin bank acquiring test equipment. However, I have had luck w/ both testers. The circuit tester I use has changeable tips (needle point) you can use to penetrate/pierce wire insulation testing/tracing points in the circuit/harness to determine quickly if you have power to each point without wire damage. I recommend both.