I'm in the process of replacing all the under-hood rubber and removing the factory A/C bits from my 73 Maverick. The A/C system will be replaced with all new components, except what's on the passenger compartment side of the firewall. This was not particularly difficult job until I tried to remove the evaporator valve. If I apply too much twisting force on the fitting, it will bend the evaporator pipes into a pretzel shape. I don't want that to happen, because then I'll end up having to take the dash apart to replace the evaporator, too. My brain says I need some way to hold the expansion valve solidly fixed in place. Just using two wrenches isn't cutting it. Any ideas?
Slip a pipe wrench-crescent wrench around the valve itself. Probably be a lot more help if you had another person to hold it
I would spray those fittings w/ some kind of solvent and let set for a few days and try it again. If that don't work, I would cut the old hoses and pull the unit out and apply heat to those fittings. Since your replacing AC underhood parts, you won't be using the old hoses. I replaced/upgraded all my under-hood parts w/ all new from Classic Auto Air. Also, pressure test the evap. to make sure it ain't leaking.
other than the wrenches are on the nuts backwards (the smaller jaw should go in the direction of travel) it should come loose...... and as Mike suggested, you could hold the valve...
I would also suggest you get some line wrenches to remove the line nuts.....and hold the valve. They can be really stubborn sometimes. Might have to put a little heat to it. I would suggest you replace the expansion valve as well.
As mentioned you can hold block and use line wrenches... I have cut lines at fittings and used a impact, of course you'll have to hold block securly...
I know you don't want to do it, but I would remove the box and pull the hoses through. It is a lot easier to then get the valve in a vice where you can lock it in place. If you are going through the trouble of getting your AC to work, you should refurbish the box. It is probably filled with junk and the flap seals have deteriorated. But most of all, this is the time to replace the heater core. if it pops, you will have to remove all your nice new Freon. Micah
Thanks, everyone. I've already soaked the fittings with Blaster penetrating oil, and applied a little heat. I'm leaning to what Micah is recommending, taking the unit out through the passenger compartment. The heater core isn't leaking at the moment, but I can easily imagine it leaking five minutes after I get the AC working. I replaced the heater core on a Fox Mustang once and it was about as much fun as a do-it-yourself root canal. I believe the evaporator is in good shape, as the AC worked and still had R12 in it (but, the compressor sounded like it was gargling asphalt and ball bearings). I'll try to document the pulling of the case, which I neglected to do with the disk brake conversion. Thanks again.
Most likely there is rust on the metal parts if the core was/is leaking and those would be better served painted w/ some kind of rust treatment. Also, the foam is going to need replacing; IIRC I used a kit for 70's era Mustang. Lastly, check the vaccum motors if you have a vac pump -- I had to replace the one on the pass side kick panel. Easier done while you have the unit out..
if replacing heater core, I suggest you have it leak checked. I bought a new one to find out a solder joint had a leak after install...
I pulled the HVAC case yesterday. Just took it step-by-step and it came out without a hitch. With the evaporator out of the car, it was a snap to remove the hoses and expansion valve (put a big crescent wrench in a vice to hold the expansion valve and the fittings came off easily). But now I have a new snag: the blend-door shaft seems to be permanently fused to the blend door, which means I can't get the blend door out of the way to R&R the heater core. I'm probably missing something totally obvious. Any ideas?
