Carburetor replacement

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by LukeLikesComets, May 14, 2021.

  1. LukeLikesComets

    LukeLikesComets Member

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    Sorry I should’ve been more descriptive haha. As you can tell I’m pretty new to this and was under the impression that running rich meant no good. So it just needs to be cleaned and a tune up? Thanks for your help!
     
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  2. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    The #1 reason for overly rich condition is leaking/blown power valve. #2, leaking needle valve on float & #3 is misadjusted float. These carbs are as simple as they come & extremely easy to rebuild.

    On hot shutdown, present day gas tends to "perk" causing a rich/flooded condition, often difficult restart.

    There are low buck, Chinese knockoffs of these carbs(ebay & Summit sells one), generally junk, heard of several that would not run/idle properly. What I've seen are poor machining & vacuum plugs loose or missing. Since a carb is is little more than a controlled vacuum leak, any screw up in the passages will cause issues. Was one on my Fairlane when I bought it, first thing I did after arriving home was install the 2bbl from my Comet. Couple months later I came up with a genuine 1969 carb, actually its the 356 CFM version used on 351, 390 & 429. The 289/302 versions are 287 CFM.
     
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  3. Constable

    Constable You have the right to remain silent....or not!

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    It is entirely possible that the carb isn't totally fubar. It could be dirty and even slightly out of adjustment. Regardless, if you want to try to rebuild it, that part isn't a dark art. Hard starting can also apply to plugs, distributor cap/rotor, plug wires, coil. A complete tune up kit would put you well under the $250 cap you set and that includes a rebuild kit for the carb. If you decide to tackle the carb, don't forget a can or two of carb cleaner and a new fuel filter.

    Oh yeah.... believe it or not, bad vacuum lines can also figure in. A hole or two can create issues. Might want to look at them.
     
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  4. LukeLikesComets

    LukeLikesComets Member

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    Thank you so much for these detailed replies! This helps a lot, I’m gonna give it a shot rebuilding and I’ll definitely be sure to check all those other possibilities. Thanks again
     
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  5. LukeLikesComets

    LukeLikesComets Member

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    Thanks so much for the help and for going into detail! I’m gonna give rebuilding it a go.
     
  6. ike72com

    ike72com Member

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    Luke

    Test question!!!???

    Complete tune-up first or rebuild carb first?
     
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  7. LukeLikesComets

    LukeLikesComets Member

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    My guess is tune up first? And if that doesn’t fix the problem than rebuild?
     
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  8. Constable

    Constable You have the right to remain silent....or not!

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    That's what I'd do especially if it's been a while since the car was tuned.
     
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  9. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    I'd look at plugs, wires, points & dist cap for condition. Replace worn parts. Assuming the plug wires look OK, I'd ohm them out. Another reason my Fairlane run like crap, one of the Champion plug wires was dead, ohm meter proved it. At least they were purdy & matched oil filter.

    Be sure vacuum lines are OK. Except for PCV hose, line from dist to carb & vacuum supply for transmission modulator valve, I'd plug off the remainder. Didn't need them in 1967, as far as run/start, don't need them for 1974. Chances any 50 year old emission device is still operable? About zero & none.
     

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  10. LukeLikesComets

    LukeLikesComets Member

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    Thank you for all the help! Will do
     

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