Nope. Circuit is power to/from ign switch, through neutral safety sw(column automatic). From there, bulkhead connector, to the S post on solenoid. Floor shift automatic have a extra opening in firewall that routes wiring to shifter. Power to ign switch also passes through bulkhead connector but if it's giving issues, at times car would be totally dead.
I appreciate that idea also on the bulkhead connector. I have had that happen on another car once. I guess it has a bolt under the dash holding it together? I may clean those connections.
My son was here so I had him hold the test light on the "S" connection while I turned the key. We got no light. So we know the problem is probably from the column to there now.
Now check the red/blue wire at connector, where it exits column(remains connected, pierce insulation on harness wiring with a pin). If there is power in start position, move to the red/blue at bulkhead connector. If no power, switch, it's adjustment, wiring or maybe connector has problem.
It had power at the column where the square plugs join, with the key on. I have to check the bulkhead now. I unscrewed the connection on the inside of the car. The pins looked clean . I shot some electrical contact cleaner on both connectors and let it dry and put it back together. I have to clean those wires coming out of the bulkhead in the motor compartment so I can tell which wire is the red/blue one. They look pretty dirty and its hard to tell colors. Now that red/blue wire is not fused in the fuse box at all is it? It just has fusable link near the solenoid correct?
At column connector you should be checking for voltage on red/blue wire when in start position. For column automatic, voltage should route to neutral safety then to bulkhead connector. Neutral safety, sets on top of column at firewall.
So I should be getting power at one of the 4 connectors at the neutral safety switch with the key in start position? If so I was not getting the light to come on at any of those connections on the switch.......
With ign in start should have power on the two outer wires. This assumes it's in park or neutral. Apparently you are not getting power to neutral safety, should be coming directly from connector exiting column. Pic is Fairlane, center two are backup. One on my Comet has six wires.
I am a little confused. There are 2 red/blue wire going into the square connector that are side by side. On the other side of the connector there is a red/blue wire that is looped that is connecting both of those same wires The column in the shop is like that too. I will take a picture tomorrow. Leads me to believe the power may not go down to that switch?
You can see the red/blue going into the loop. The other 4 wires look are going to the neutral safety switch the green , white ,black and purple.
Loops are usually a bypass, used with a std transmission. That may have been added to yours, looks like a bunch of claw marks on the connector. Back up and verify there is voltage on red/blue wire exiting column when in crank position. Without that, further tests are useless.
I misunderstood you. I think you are talking about this one. The wire in the picture looks more orange because it is faded I think. It has the stripe. With the key in the start position there was no voltage on that wire on either side.
Ahhh, the crescent connector is signal/brake lights. There is a orange/blue in that one. The ign sw has a rectangular plug, similar to one with loop. It's higher up on column.
OK, so I am checking the red/blue coming out of the ignition switch itself. Sorry I am not following very well. I will check that tomorrow. Thank you again.
