Kick Down Rod ??

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Chief1010, Jan 4, 2015.

  1. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    The only reason this car doesn't have it's stock carb is it backfired and melted the choke. I replaced the engine because of a blown head gasket and the only thing I have laying around is the 4 bbl edelbrock and matching intake. The car has been down since April and I just want to drive it......... :(
     
  2. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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  3. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    The cable seems to be a good option, will it fit a edelbrock 500 cfm performer 4bbl carb?
     
  4. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    hmmm.. I dunno. My disclaimer should have been that it's been quite a few years since I've even driven one.. so the memory could be off again I guess. I seem to remember when I had it disconnected the motor would lug a bit more in the same gear it was in and jump right down into the next lowest gear when it was connected. They work together and deliver results based not only on manifold vacuum but also throttle position as well. This is why kickdown misadjustment can result in either too late a shift or too early as the vac mod can't do it all by its lonesome. Having a kickdown and not having one always made my trans shift timing(as in road speeds and throttle angles it shifts up and down in) change in noticeable manner.

    So, when you goose the throttle hard and long enough for the engine vacuum to drop low enough to allow the modulator to raise line pressure, it immediately jumps down a gear? And hooking up the kickdown has absolutley no impact or changes how the trans reacts to gear changes? That doesn't ring a bell at all.

    The other thing to keep in mind is that using slower transitioned but heavy throttle inputs.. such as going up a long grade at moderate throttle angle and then leaning into the pedal gradually until nearing full throttle will not always result in very/sufficiently low manifold vacuum to allow the modulator to do all the work. This is where the kickdown takes over the whole show and allows gear change based on the amount of lead in your foot and helps line pressure to rise to keep the clutch pack cool and happy. In fact, you'll be hard pressed to keep the trans from kicking down a gear/passing gear even if the modulator hasn't fully realized what the heck is going on. Similar to the effect of centrifugal timing and vac advance supplementation of the timing curve. Like I said.. they work together hand in hand.
     
  5. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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  6. William623

    William623 Member Supporting Member

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    If you can go with the adapters. It is a lot cheaper, but the cable should fit any carb really. You can adjust it's length for what you need.
     
  7. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    ok I'll look into the adapters but if I bought the cable kit do I need to buy anything else or is it bolt on and go?
     
  8. William623

    William623 Member Supporting Member

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    A buddy of mine is running it on his maverick no problem. You will just need a bracket to center the cable to the throttle. You can make that pretty easy, other than that I don't believe so.
     
  9. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    All carbs make adaptors to hook up the factory kick down rod. That is the way I suggest you go.
     
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  10. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    I want to keep it stock as possible, I'll probably go that way. Nice to have all these opinions floating around. :)
     

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