I just replaced the lower A arms on my mav, and when I looked at the torque specs for the ball joint to spindle it says 60 ft lbs min. When I do that the castle nut is far below the cotter pin hole? Doesn't make sense. In my original A arms, they had a "steel" sleeve or ledge inside the rubber that wouldn't let the spindle completely crush the rubber boot. What am I doing wrong?
You can put a hardened washer under the castle nut. It sounds like the taper on the ball joint is too small I know they make a sleeve to go over it
Could my spindle be worn that much? The place on ebay guaranteed high quality parts no foreign off shore. Maybe I got had.
Doubtful that spindle is worn, lots of differences in years of parts. Nothing is guaranteed in the automotive world. Do you have a link to the part you bought
I would just put the hardened washer under the castle nut, the threads on the ball joint are probably just too long, I would blame it on a manufacturing error
Okay torqued down everything to spec now my new front end is locked solid. Won't move. What did I do wrong? New LCA rebuild UCA new sway bar bushings new strut rod bushings. Absolutely no give or movement. I can jack the entire car from the lower A arm with no movement to suspension. ?????
I torqued UCA bushings to 35 ft lbs. Yes Stock Springs just sand blasted them and put a new coat of paint on.
If I remember correctly you have to tighten the bushings with the car on the ground, loosen them up and set it down
That sounds right. I plan to loosen the LCA eccentric. As well as the UCA outer bushings. My question is how do I torque the UCA bushings after I set it down and retighten them? Do thwy make a torque wrench instead of a ratchet?
I don't see how it is possible to torque UCA bushing nuts, once in the towers. I think you have to torque B4 or tighten then in the towers best you can. If anyone has a way to do it otherwise, I wud like to know about it.