Discussion in 'Technical' started by stockhatch, Nov 18, 2008.
how easy would that other m2 front end work with that paul horton cross member?
Not the best idea to mix and match parts.
A-arm mounting points are positioned and a-arm length is chosen to minimize bump steer in a particular application.
If you put a random rack with a random crossmember and random control arms, it probably won't drive so well.
By changing the length of th arms and where they're mounted (up and down in the car) will also really affect handling. This geometry determines the instant center of the suspension, which works with the center of gravity to determine how much body roll you get when going around corners, and how the tire is positioned with respect to the road.
If you just need the front end to hold the engine off the ground, then anything will probably work.
Mustang 11 front end install
Hello,I'll do what I can to help in this area, I have done this swap 4 times total now,Three of them were done using donor front ends I have bought out of 1977-1978 mustang salvage cars and one from a kit from spartan rod works wich worked good also. Spartan rod works has a web site and are based in Sparta Wisconsin. Their kits require a bit more welding and assembly but the prices are quite a bit cheaper than some others I have seen. When you use an original mustang 11 front end and graft it in you do have to incorporate the original strut rods to the m11 front end but its not that hard to do
Here is a Facebook link for one of our newest forum members that designed and built his own Mustang II type front suspension for his Maverick - Really great build photos in his album
What I wonder is if the spindles are the same.. I recently purchased a 72 that has a Street Rod Enginering crossmember in it. It has nothing else for a suspension or steering. I can get all the componants to complete the front end back together from them.
When it comes to the brakes I am considering upgrading from the Granada setup they offer to Wilwood. They say that I have to have their brackets and I need to know which calipers I want.. SO.. I wonder if I can get the brackets directly from Wilwood or from say a member who might be intrested in selling their parts. Not that there is a member at this time, just wondering if it were possible if I decided to go that route..
Reading the information in this thread reminds me that I was wanting to look and compare the differences in the Street Rod structure and the R&C structure. I already have the one crossmember in my 72 and need to do a kit to my 73. From what I read so far I should not get my A arms from R&C to put on my 72. But I wonder if anything else would matter..
Gene, Top A-Frames should fit no matter who made them. There are made in standard length from mounting cross to the center of ball joint or 5/8 inch shorter to keep them from hitting your headers when trying to get your proper camber if your headers are real close. Any of the Mustang II spindles made will work also, standard or dropped versions. I don't even know what else could possibly work as the Mustang II is a front steer spindle when most all other Fords are rear steer - not compatible at all. The lower ones may be the trouble spot as a lot of manufactures make their own version of the wide tubular A-Frame and then match up the spacer welded through the cross member so their A-Frame fits. These could be different coming from different producers. If your cross member is designed to accept a stock type MII lower then they should all fit no matter who made them. I bought a MII rack from Flaming River and it bolted right up as these cross member producers use standard spaced mounts that the MII rack uses. My rack ends came a little longer than I need so I will just cut some material off of both ends equally so the stock MII rack ends will work and there will be room to get my toe adjustment. Any stock MII springs will work if your lower A-Frame and top hats are built for that type of spring. Coil overs should simply fit to the lower A-Frame where the stock shock mounted and the upper mount is pretty flexible as to how it can be mounted unless the manufacturer already has this figured out as some do then it may be designed for only a certain length coil over to fit. Stock MII front discs will work but will only give you a 9 inch rotor. I used aftermarket brackets bought on Ebay that allows the use of the Granada 11 inch rotor and late 70's to mid 80's GM Metric calipers that you can get from any auto parts store. Steering joints can be bought from any race car catalog. You need a splined joint for the rack and as many u-joints to get to the your inner column shaft. All of these joints are made for welding in 3/4 steel tubing connecting then to create your column. An oversized 3/4 steering heim is also needed to support your finished column so all of those u-joints are not flopping around everywhere.
Sounds like what I understand so far... Once I get the car here (which is being picked up as I type this) I want to compare the attaching point on the crossmember for the lower A arms to the R&C. I am thinking this area is a critical one. My thoughts are wider and thicker tube/sleeve is better and gussetted is a plus.
When I first began the process of deciding on the MII system, I read a lot on the internet about this conversion and any good and bad points. Other than fails due to bad welds, there was some talk about the long bolt going through the lower A-Frame mount failing. I have no idea on what the numbers are on such a thing happening. When I was on the phone with Full Tilt ordering my parts, I asked them about that bolt and was assured that they never had a fail. FT makes their own long bolt out of stock material then thread the one end and weld a nut on the other end to form a 6 point head. Then it is plated. Whatever you decide on the lower A-Frame I would just suggest the purchase of the correct bottom boll/hardware for that application
And gussets are always a good addition
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