The other point is that the heads and valley hold to much oil that doesn't get back to the pan fast enough so now you can have less than 3 qts left at hi rpm besides not cooling fast enough when pumped to the bearings. This is one time when bigger is not better. Most any engine needs no more than 10psi oil pressure for every 1000 rpm. More than that is a waist.
I find it hard to believe that a HV pump will cause problems. If they were problematic as some say they are, why are they sold? And, why does my machinest (30+ years experience) install them in each and every rebuild? Something else to consider, even our wet-sump sprint motors are fitted with HV pumps, even with the stock GM pans...and we all know that GM pans are actually smaller than Ford pans. Personally, I'd re-think everything, and even inspect the block for core-shift or other problems that could cause oiling system woes. I saw a 460 once that had the oil galley through the lifters drilled off-center, then drilled from the back of the block to try to correct it. That one was an original 185,000 mile untouched engine out of a 1-ton 4wd van that I scored at the local u-pull-it. Of course, oiling problems plagued it as well from day one, and eventually got tossed in favor of another engine. There MUST be a reason that oil pressure was low to the mains/rods. How about the front galley plugs? Are they installed right with no signs of leakage? Yes, sometimes they leak when 1/4" NPT plugs are installed. How about rings? The famous 460 that I had also had ring problems and blow-by heated the oil so badly that it lost it's lubricating properties. Detonation sometimes will beat the bearings so badly that the crank journal/bearing will heat up, expand, and lock the bearing to the crank, and while everything else it trying to spin, the bearing spins inside the rod. Normally this is easy to spot by looking at the plugs....they're usually white, burned, or have aluminum specks on the insulators. Not trying to argue, but there MUST be a reason that those bearings lost lubrication. I would install a oil pressure light in the dash or somewhere else to warn if pressure drops. They're easy to put in...just use a standard Ford pressure switch with a "T" fitting at the block. I can post pics if needed. IMO oversized capacity pans are nothing more than a band-aid to cover another problem somewhere else. Have any mods been made to the block? Just curious. Good luck
The problem is with the stock front sump pan that only holds four qts of oil and with some being pushed to the rear of the pan. At 6500 rpm, the high volume pump was emptying the pan and it was still showing good oil pressure. the 351w oils from the center out with the front being the hardest to get oil to that’s why it took out number 1 rod bearing the 1st time then the motor had a lot of miles on it then took number two rod bearing out twice now I have a 7qt pan
The motor came out of 91 highway patrol car it had 122.000 miles on the body so I think the motor had that many as well even though I was told it only had about 50.000 On a rebuild never had any problems with it in the crown vic so I pulled it out and put a stock type chrome ford motor sport front sump pan on. while the pan was off that’s when I could see it did not look like it had been apart it was clean but all stock gaskets and stuff I put a new HV oil pump and pick up and drive shaft in. running the motor in the mav then only turning about 5200 rpm bad distributor replaced with a MSD and had not problems getting it to pull to 5700 ran it a few weeks and it started to hammer then spun number 1 rod bearing. motor rebuilt recon rods with ARP wave loc bolts all new parts put 400 miles on it then started to ease in to it got 455 miles out of it about the last 25 miles it what prob did it was taking it up to 6500 and it too started knocking pulled it apart number 2 bearing out the machinist said bad rod got new eagle H-bean rods and it did almost the same only did not run it after I heard the knock