Pinion removal?

their are 2 main things to setting up a diff correctly. properly setting up the pinion gear to ring gear mesh and proper bearing preloads. these are very easy to get wrong. how to do this is very hard to accurately explain over the internet. just the fact that you had a hard time getting the pinion nut off tells me you dont have the equipment to properly crush a new crush sleeve to set the pinion bearing preload. also as a professional, i prefer to have the diff brought to me assembled so i can properly inspect it during the disassembly process. one of the key things is checking the gear mesh pattern to know if its good or worn out and what it needs to be reset to during reassembly. you have already lost that ability sense you have it all torn down.
i would highly recommend finding a local guy who can properly reassemble your diff for you. if you get it wrong then you will be putting another new gear set and bearings in again.

 

thanks a lot for the advice guys. Ill be doing a lot of research while putting it all back together.

 

I understand its a pretty complex and intricate thing to do but i really want to learn how to do it myself which is why i dont want to hire someone. I did find a youtube video series that is very very very in depth on how to take apart, inspect and assemble it all.

 

what are you replacing in the diff?
at the least you will want to get an impact gun, also a inch lb torque meter to properly crush the crush sleeve and set the pinon bearing preload.
you will want a dial indicator to set up the back lash.
if you are changing the ring and pinion you will need a dial caliper or micrometer to measure pinion shims.
their is a lot of misinformation on diff building on the internet and it can be expensive if you get it wrong.

 

thanks for the info, im replacing the bearings and spider/pinion gears.

 

1st off I want to thank you guy's for the info on different subjects I have received so far.. It's good to know that there are still some good people out there that don't mind helping out us less educated guy's.. lol.. Next question.. Is there a site or info on changing gears in the 8 inch.. Kind of a step by step if you will.. I can build a motor all day long.. Haven't messed with the rear end much..

 

for what reason do you need to replace these parts, what were the symptoms?

 

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/41618/

 

It has a 3.00 gear in it.. Just wanted to go alittle lower.. Nothing is broke, just looking for a decent gear for the highway, or if I saw a car worth trying at a stop light I could.. Maybe a 3.25 gear or so..

 

Assuming a somewhat stock engine with automatic, a converter in the range of 2200 stall in the trans will give far more off the line acceleration than swapping from 3.00 to a 3.25...

A higher stall converter allows engine to rev higher before the tires begin to turn, but above 25-35 MPH the converter and gear change would give a similar improvement...

 

Thanks for the info mercgt73.. it's a 302 30ver flat top with 70 model 351Ws. ported and polished, cut out bigger valves.. Cam is non roller 515/285.. The tranny is a rebuilt C4 w/2000 stall

 

you've got your terminology wrong. you mean ring and pinion gears. the spider gears are the ones in the center of the carrier that allows the axles to differentiate.

 

don't think the 3:25s are going to be worth the time and trouble...(3:55s)......

 

Then 3:55 is what I will try.. Appreciate the info

 

im installing 3.55s in mine right now. in rebuilding your rear you do need some specific tools, like a dial to measure your backlash and pinion depth etc. Ive been checking out youtube videos. One that is really in depth and great is this series,