Power Steering Pump Upgrade

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by rag9836, Oct 20, 2017.

  1. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Hi all,

    I am still in the middle of replacing my floor pans...taking forever, but just finished the 220 upgrade and got a new compressor to run the cutoff tool and air tools.... but while I have the power steering lines off, I decided to replace the leaky power steering lines, control valve and ram cylinder.

    With all of the power steering elements being new...I was thinking it would probably make sense to replace the pump. It's the original 72.

    Are there any recommended upgrades for the pump or all they all pretty much the same?

    Thanks for the advice.
     
  2. Rasit

    Rasit Member

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  3. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom Supporting Member

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    Any Ford/Thompson pump that readily fits is going to be same as next... More often than not they are replaced because of leakage or "moan & groan" which generally signifies it's getting tired... If leakage is only issue, a seal/gasket kit is around $10 from Rockauto...
     
  4. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Thanks guys, great reccos!
     
  5. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    I have the same pump, but using Borg steering box. I had to install pressure shim kit to reduce pressure, car steering was way to sensitive any speed over 50mph, "required constant correction". My pump came w/ 2 shims installed, had to add 3 more to get the pressure where the car drives nice now.
    What if any, mods were needed on your setup? Are U using custom hoses or Borg hoses? I found Borg hoses to short- had some made. I assume you have all other steering components factory OE?
     
  6. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    I used a Saginaw pump from a 78 ford van. I didnt have a pump at all, and this one is what the junkyard supplied. I had to adapt the supply hose to it....I used the correct end of a GM hose and flared a fitting to it that allowed me to hook it up to a new factory style hose. My steering is quiet, leak free, and decent in my opinion....probably not equal to other more expensive setups, but good.
     
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  7. Rasit

    Rasit Member

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    I only replaced the pump. Pressures are fine. I do remember needing a hose adapter fitting that screwed into the pump allowing me to use my OEM hose. Everything else OE in good working order.
     
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  8. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    I finally got to drive about twenty miles at highway speed, and I think that Saginaw pump is making my steering to sensitive too. It was that way even at 35 and I corrected that with better alignment, but that same feel is back at 55-60. Time to research a fix.
     
  9. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Get the shim kit from Borg, add 3 shims, should make big difference. I have a flow reducer part from Turn One Performance I plan to experiment w/ this nx season and remove the shims.
    B4 adding the shims cudn't drive over 50 w/o issues; after addition can drive 70+ no issues.

    https://www.turnone-steering.com/co...tings/products/gm-p-or-n-pump-flow-restrictor

    What is ur caster setting?
     
  10. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    I need to take it to a shop to get "real" numbers, but I have done a Shelby drop by moving the UCA holes down 1" ( in a line pependicular to what I determined to be the horizontal plane of the car) and back 3/16" and put 1/8 shims in front UCA bolt. I hung a string and weight, measured some distances and used a right triangle angle calculator to tell me I was about 3 1/2 degrees positive. I may be off, and need more shim, but my steering wheel has zero slop....as soon as it moves, the wheels turn. The white knuckles start at 55, and the faster you go, the worse it gets . It effortlessly returns to center at lower speeds. Seventeen bucks for the borgensen shim kit is fairly cheap to experiment with. I got my Saginaw pump from a 78 Ford van, (am using it to power the factory power assist ram) and have had differing output numbers quoted in different places. I think it is acting over pressurized, and shims are supposed to help that. I also need to take it to an alignment shop that would WANT to carefully do my alignment.....if that exists.
     
  11. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom Supporting Member

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    I pull as much positive caster as strut rods allow and sorta judge where R vs L is by measurements to chassis alignment openings... Also look at wheel in opening R vs L... If the tire drags on front edge of opening you've gone too far(not had this happen but heard it can happen)... I have two 1/8" shims in Comet... For camber I use a digital angle finder and can judge from center cap opening on wheels that is perfectly flat(also used the wheels to set camber on front of my Cobra Jet after it's front end rebuild)... For toe I run across a Weaver alignment board that indicate how much in/out toe is...

    I'm in process of replacing ball joints in wife's Grand Marquis, I'll do same to align(though it doesn't have strut rods)... What it does have are adjustable eccentrics that locate upper ball joint, makes caster & camber a breeze, don't even have to get under car...
     
  12. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    I also have "two" 1/8 shims in the UCA's , strut rods pretty far out, 3.6 & 3.8 respectfully pos. caster. Car returns to center pretty well for 40+ yr old technology; B4 that, had to bring the wheel back mostly manually. Running 205/70*14 wheels/tires - have not checked to see if any rubbing at full turn, but have not heard any noises.
    I believe the Borg shim kit will get you where you need to be; a easy and inexpensive fix.
     
  13. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    This was an interesting read from the land of Mopar. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/MoparAction/PumpItDown.pdf
    Pictures of pressure relief valve out, and recipe for home-made shims.

    Now I am getting shim envy and may need to upgrade to TWO!
     
  14. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom Supporting Member

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    LOL OK, BUT I don't have any shims in my Cobra Jet and it's fine... In fact in 49 years the original springs, perches and upper control arms have never been out of car... Everything else incl upper ball joints, lower control arms, strut rod bushings etc and all steering components have been replaced this year... I suspect the upper control arm shafts are a little worn as it still has a slight clunk(vs large clunk prior) at times over bumps, doesn't squeak though...
     
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  15. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    BTW, I took the bypass valve out of my pump, and it had one washer/shim that was .025 thick. I made a fat shim out of a washer, and my total is .110 . still works well at low speed, and although I couldnt get to the freeway, I drove in 2nd gear to mimic freeway rpm and it still felt good. Will not know for sure until the next time I can do 70.
     
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