project with 302 needs exhaust....and future part list.

I was looking at some 97 mountaineers this afternoon, one with engine date of 3-12-97 and the other was 11-3-96, and both were GT40P heads. I certainly dont want any more clearance issues (although one of those engines only had 130K). I may only venture out when there are 96s in the yard. All the explorers were 4.0 . Some say that the GT40 went halfway through 97? If that is the case, it must be random. I am after the better flow, hardened seats, and the $80 P&P price; but am in no rush for those.

Does that MIG welder work good for stuff like sub frame connectors? Or only thin stuff? is it 110 or 220V ? I am ready to leave the old gas torch in semi-retirement. I am better at melting than welding with that thing.

 

In explorers the GT40s did go through half of 97. But mountaineers were the more expensive vehicle so maybe they got them earlier?

 

gas is always better but some friendly tips on welding with flux-core wire.

Butt joints are tougher to learn on.. use slip joints whenever possible.

be prepared for spatter and lots of chipping/pinhole filling. you can use a spatter paste to aid final product appearance but it makes another mess that also needs to be cleaned up. You could also wrap either side of the joints with old welding gloves or welding blankets too.

thinner .023 to .027 wire thickness is better for most piping since it needs less heat and causes less burn throughs as your feed speeds go up.

I have in the past made the mistake and would never use un-galvanized pipe again unless a ceramic coating is to be used instead. use a cold galvanizing spray after wire wheeling/brushing all your weld joints.

 

Yep ! We've made a few sets of Sub-Frame Connectors of 1-1/2" x 1/4" wall Square Tubing and it welds fine. Just clean the areas well where the bond is to take place and begin with small tacks until you're sure everything is where
you WANT it to be .. Then Weld. Incidentally , our welders are 220/s .
Cometized
(Chip)

 

I built my header back system about 12 years ago using a kit from J. C. Whitney for 65-66 Mustang. It was stainless and I believe it was under $200. It is still on the car today and works just fine. It did take some tweaking to make it work. I have no idea if this set-up is still available, just throwing out a suggestion. Good luck.
Lee "THE MAV" Richart

 

Well, I decided I wanted a fairly quiet system, and decided to go with 2.25 pipe off the headers and bring it together with a Y pipe, that turns (2) 2.25s into (1) 3 inch pipe that will go over the axle and into a big round Dynomax Super-turbo muffler mounted in the stock location using the original hanger. All the bends will be mandrel bent, and I think it will flow just fine. After experimenting with wire feed welders, I decided to use gas. I may tack everything and take it to an exhaust shop for welding. We'll see how it goes.

 

I would be interested to hear how this sounds when you get it finished. Can you post a video please?

 

If I cant get it posted, I will get my son to help me do it. I am also very curious about it.

 

I'd bet it will flow well and sound just fine.

 

the exhaust system is almost done. I am welding it myself, and in the process my welds are graduating from looking like the rocky mountains with a flat finish to rolling hills with a more shiny look. I am posting a link to a video of the car with open headers just to see if it works......https://www.facebook.com/stuart.wall.71

 

There is a one minute video on the above link of the car running with the exhaust in place. It was recorded with a phone, so the way it sounds in real life has a resemblance to it, but is noisier in person. I still have not taken it on the road....I am double checking my fan wiring and trying to figure out why it wont turn on when my thermometer said 200. Turned it on with a paperclip and cooled down to 170 in a minute.

 

You-tube 3" single for non facebook peeps.

 

I like it! How does it perform?

 

Well......ahem, I dont know! I havent driven it yet. One 3 inch pipe has only slightly less volume than two 2.25s, and as exhaust cool down the volume required should be less. So, I traded an x pipe for a y pipe, and if someday I want to try a panhard bar, there is no exhaust pipe on the driver side to interfere with that. I am going to run it at "Ford Fever" towards the end of august, so I might even get a time slip there.

 

Took it out for the first time...went to put some gas in it. I got on it once from a roll, and it sounded great, but with a 2.79 and no real fine tuning, I think it could be better. I need to put some gauges in, get better tires, and get new front springs, then I can drive it enough to learn something. OH! and put in a 3.25 trac loc sitting in my garage. I wanted to drive it with the 2.79 just to see if that gear was functional before I yank it.