R&C Mustang II front end swap on Maverick

Ok guys.. forgive me if I ask a "stupid girl question", but I am getting ready to tear my 1970 Grabber Maverick apart and I want to make sure Im doing it right. Has anyone actually used the Rod and Custom Mustang II front end kit on their car? Any problems? etc. Did you go with the drop spindles or the standard ones? Any tips or advice is welcome. This is my first Maverick endeavor so Im nervous.
My plan is to take out the shock towers, convert to disc brakes, and put a 347 engine in. I would like to get the front end down a bit-- it seems to be pointing up in the front-- would like that to come down so it has a better stance. Also going to go with a bigger rear end ( how many girls say that??) I have a granada rear end to put in.. more on that later.

Ok.. thought Id throw the questions out there and see what comes back before I start taking pieces off.
Thanks
Terri

 

sorry i cant help answer your question but i cant wait to see this one done!!!

 

You do not need the drop spindles. See http://loco4fomoco.com/MII.html for install pics on a 65 Falcon Ranchero

 

ok Matt.. next year Im parking next to you at the Colby show. Look out!

 

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Thank you for the quick response..I appreciate it. I was hoping you'd say that as I ordered the standard ones. Was just second guessing myself.

 

I put one in my '72, it's pretty easy if you have basic fabrication skills and a good welder.

Russ

 

I was planning on going with an aftermarket Mustang II crossmember so I've been emailing Willie at R&C for a few days now with mostly basic questions. I also started reading about some failures of lower A-frame mounting points when using the wide A-frames. There is a long tube welded straight through the crossmember where the wide type lower tubular A-frames mount to with a single long bolt. This tube is offset to the rear which leaves more of the tube hanging in thin air without support. This is done so the A-frame will clear the rack in the front of the crossmember. Some of the failures are due to this longer piece of tubing flexing causing the mounting bolt to break. My original plan was to build my own crossmember and have a certified welder weld it all up for me. I'm think about going back to than plan because I can then use a much larger lower mounting tube diameter and weld in threaded bungs front and rear. This way I can mount my lowers with 2 shorter grade 8 bolts instead of that really long single one. I was also going to gusset the rear of this tube either to the crossmember or the frame rail to stop some of the flex. No failures were specifing any one manufaturer, just the design itself. I still want to purchase the top spring cups from R&C.

 

"nuttin-but-a-thang"

you may want to do a search on the subject...

my Rod and Custom setup...

Frank...

 

That is PURTY

 

did you talk to Willie at R&C about this and if so, what did he say?
i would be interested in reading this also. do you have the writeup so i may do this?

Frank

 

Frank, I got the links from the Mustang II suspension data base on this site. The links are in the first thread entry.

http://www.maverick.to/mmb/showthread.php?t=49815

I didn't talk to Willie about any failures at R&C. I might email him tonight and ask for the halibut but no one was pointing any blame to any 1 manufacture.

After reading about the failures and seeing some of the photos, I just felt it would be good to beef up this area if I had a chance to do so.

I'm still going with some form of this set up.

 

Reading through those posts, there are a couple of things that come to mind.

1. Remember to lube the bolts when you install them. While rust is not an issue where I live (San Diego, CA) it is in most of the country. Water will get into the space around the bolt and corrode it if the bolt is not well lubricated.

2. Rod and Custom sub frames are very well designed and gusseted where they need to be however, if you feel the need for additional gussets, it is an easy task to add more. Just be sure to not warp the tubes with two much heat when welding. Short welds with time to cool between them. If you warp the tubing, you will create an wear point on the bolt that wasn't there to begin with.

3. The failures discussed in those MII kits are very similar to failures with the stock components. Strut rods break. Ask several of the members here about their strut rod failures. Bolts corrode in wet or snowy areas. These are maintenance issues. You really need to get in the habit of doing periodical Nut and Bolt checks under the car. Racers do this as a matter of course but most of the rest of use just drive until something breaks. By visually inspecting the underside ever 5,000 or so street miles, you will catch the signs of wear or impending failure before it becomes catastrophic.

I have assisted with the installation of dozens of R&C Mustang II kits in a variety of cars. I have seen no failures like those discussed. I have seen some other kits that use long unsupported tubes with narrower sub frames which, quite frankly, scared me to contemplate. You can't go wrong with the R&C kit.

One caveat. If you are not a very good welder, hire someone who is. This is not the area to learn to weld on. All the rest of the fabrication can be handled by you and makes a great garage project.

 

Hey Guys..thanks for all the info. I will pass it on to the guy doing my welding... . Glad I have Maverick friends to turn to for info! I'll keep you posted on the progress..
Have a great weekend.

 

whos doing the welding?