Hi HarleyGa, It sounds like the relay is operating mechanically. In this simple circuit, A test light should be A little easier than A meter to use for troubleshooting, but either will work. You are looking for the presence or absence of voltage, rather than A specific level (at the input and output). The 'click' you hear is the mechanical operation of the relay switch (energizing), connecting terminal 30(input to the relay switch) to terminal 87(output of the relay switch). As wired, +12V should be present at term. 30 at all times, and +12V at 87 only when the relay is energized. Make sure your test equipment is referencing (connected to) A good ground. There should be no voltage drop across (measured between) 30 and 87. The voltage will be referenced to ground. Neither of those contacts should be at ground potential. In summary, check for voltage at the input and output of each component, conductor and connector. Start at one end of the circuit and work to the other end, or "half split" the circuit by starting in the middle (at terminal 30 of the relay). And work backward until you find A good 12V or forward to the place where the voltage is no longer present. It's more simple in practice than it seems in print. P.S. If these are not high output lights, the relay shouldn't be necessary. Assuming the acc. circuit is not already loaded near its limit.
Solved. I purchased a five pack of these relays (pic) thru Amazon. It turns out that all five were defective. Bought a new one from Advance Auto, plugged it in and the grill lights worked. I still cant believe all five were bad. Important lesson learned. Thank you for the time and effort all of you took to help.
Glad you got it fixed, was the relay you bought from advance auto the same with five plugs on the relay
Just Curious : WHERE were these fine looking automotive relays MANUFACTURED ? Dare I guess ?? Cometized (Chip)
