Roger's Idiot thread for a 302/C4 into a '70

Ok, so I watched on YouTube about putting a paper towel in the #1 cyl and waiting for it to pop out. Thus showing that you are on the compression stroke. I did that and the rotor is here, which is way off the #1 position marked on the cap


I do not see any timing marks on my Harmonic Balancer, but there is a deep grove. It does line up with pointer when the towel pops out. Is this grove the timing mark? EDIT: engine is out of a 79 F-150

 

didnt make a diff. I noticed I had even more compression pushing out on my finger (was in the #1 cyl hole) at the 3:00 position. So I used that as my #1 and rewired. It got me closer, actually wanted to run as long as I cranked it....

 

Yeah the dist was inserted in incorrect position..

Someone compensated by installing plug wires in correct order from the "new" #1 position. If I have my orientation correct, normally approx where the square in plastic is on cap adapter.


Yep sounds like you're almost there.

Advance dist slightly, ¼" or so, turn toward thermostat housing. May take a couple advances to get to run.

 

Agreed, you're on the right track now.

 

I also think you are heading in the right direction. When you get #1 on compression stroke, you can find top dead center with a piece of long, straight, stiff wire. Just insert it through the plug hole, and turn the engine by hand. You will be able to see/feel the sweep of the piston, and get it fairly close to TDC. If your timing marks are not visible at this point, it is possible your pointer is in the wrong spot, or you have the wrong pointer. Once at TDC, rotate your distributor to get the rotor pointing at #1. (Rewire your cap again if necessary). It should be close enough to run at that point, or only need a slight timing tweak, but if you verify that your timing marks are way off at TDC compression stroke, you cant use them.

 

Sorry been a while since I had time to work on it. It now does this, but only when the key is in start. I know I saw a thread on here with the same problem. Ill have to track it down later..

 

Well boys and girls, WE DID IT!!! It now runs like without having to crank it. So the problem was that the red/white plug going into the module was BACKWARDS. Even thought its keyed (flat on one side) so it only fits one way. I swapped the wires at the bat and solenoid and it stayed running...

 

Here is a second pic of them crossed and I never noticed

 

Yippie!!!! Congrats!!!

AFAIK the white acts as a timing retard while cranking.

So how much rubber will it leave??

 

Lets get it all soldered up and the front end back on first, LOL..

Again, thank you for all your help.

And yep, once I swapped the wires around it ran fine. Which made since because with them backwards it was always retarded and only had power when cranking. I just still dont know why a keyed plug would be backwards.

 

Made in China?

 

Both the original and the Autozone have the same top plug...

 

Nice job sticking with the troubleshooting until you found it!

 

Yahooo! I bet that is a relief to get that sorted out. I wouldnt be surprised if the ohnozone part supplier wired that plug wrong.

 

The plug is correct, read the 1980 wiring diagram & weep...