I would stay away from Boss myself. Here is a setup that would rock your trunk off. Alpine SWR-12D4 --- $130 Each [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWR-12D4-Type-R-Subwoofer-4-ohm/dp/B007XW2WTK"]Amazon.com: Alpine SWR-12D4 Type-R 12" Subwoofer with Dual 4-ohm Voice Coils: Car Electronics[/ame] Alpine MRX-M110 --- $283 [ame="http://www.amazon.com/MRX-M110-Alpine-Monoblock-X-Power-Amplifier/dp/B007R3YHVG"]Amazon.com: MRX-M110 - Alpine Monoblock 1100W RMS X-Power Amplifier: Car Electronics[/ame] Then a ported Box --- $53 http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Dual-Ven...x-3-4-MDF-BXVN122-GR-/300850131635#vi-content Total $596 Or the cheaper setup, won't hit as loud. But will still sound great. Alpine SWS-12D4 --- $100 Each [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWS-12D4-Subwoofer-Massive-Fourth-Generation/dp/B008IW1SFI"]Amazon.com: Alpine Type-S SWS-12D4 12" Inch 1500 Watt Subwoofer WIth Massive Dual 4-Ohm Voice Coils, Fourth-Generation, More Bass In Less Space: Car Electronics[/ame] The same amp and box. Total for that setup $530 ------------------------------------ But to be honest you really don't need two subs unless you want crazy thumping. If you want a nice clean setup with nice sound and a good hit. Nothing crazy, I would do this setup. Alpine SWR-12D4 --- $130 [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWR-12D4-Type-R-Subwoofer-4-ohm/dp/B007XW2WTK"]Amazon.com: Alpine SWR-12D4 Type-R 12" Subwoofer with Dual 4-ohm Voice Coils: Car Electronics[/ame] With this Box --- $49 [ame="http://www.amazon.com/300-Enclosure-Series-318-12-Alpine/dp/B004RJ2Y6S/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y"]Amazon.com: R/T 300 Enclosure Series -318-12 Alpine - Single 12-Inch Slot Vented Sub Bass Hatchback Speaker Box with Labyrinth Power Port for Alpine Subs: Car Electronics[/ame] Alpine MRX-M110 --- $283 [ame="http://www.amazon.com/MRX-M110-Alpine-Monoblock-X-Power-Amplifier/dp/B007R3YHVG"]Amazon.com: MRX-M110 - Alpine Monoblock 1100W RMS X-Power Amplifier: Car Electronics[/ame] Keep it in a 4ohm load and it will sound great. This is the setup I would do with less money to spend! Total $462 =================================================== Now for the other speakers. 6x9s You have two choices SPR-69 --- $110 [ame="http://www.amazon.com/ALPINE-SPR-69-2-WAY-COAXIAL-SPEAKERS/dp/B004WWNSMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369285233&sr=1-1&keywords=SPR-69"]Amazon.com: ALPINE SPR-69 6X9" 2-WAY COAXIAL SPEAKERS 300W PEAK / 100W RMS: Electronics[/ame] and SPS-619 --- $72 [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPS-619-3-way-Audio-Speakers/dp/B004TNU40U/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369285234&sr=1-5&keywords=SPR-69"]Amazon.com: Alpine SPS-619 6x9" 3-way Car Audio Speakers (Pair): Electronics[/ame] The SPR-69s if you are going to use another amp. If using power from the deck go with the SPS-619s. If you choose an amp get this one for the 6x9s, Plus with this amp you can add two more speakers for the front. If the 6x9s are for the rear. Plus the SPS-619s will work with this amp also. MRX-F35 --- $187 [ame="http://www.amazon.com/MRX-F35-Alpine-4-Channel-X-Power-Amplifier/dp/B007TBYP72/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369285703&sr=1-1&keywords=MRX-F35#productDetails"]Amazon.com: MRX-F35 - Alpine 4-Channel X-Power Series Amplifier: Electronics[/ame]
Well kept under $800!!! I would go with the setup of $462 for subs. Then run the 6x9s off the deck. Using the SPS-619 for $72 Total is $534 Then if you have a deck (head unit with 50w x 4) it will sound great. Find some nice speakers for up front and you got yourself a full system.
For wiring you can get a kit at Walmart or Radioshack. No need for monster cable or anything silly like that.
Somthing to keep in min is multiple subs AND 6x9's are going to be hard to pull off and still have a trunk. I had 3 10 in the rear with 2 5.25 in the rear deck that sounded great and still left some room. With subs, the 6x9's arent really necessary. I currently run 5.25 in the rear deck and a single Kicker 12" L5. Sounds great. The 12" L5 is wayyyyyy overkill in my opinion though hence the reason Im selling it. I keep it turned down as you cant sit in the car with it turned up. I'm going to be getting into a 10" L3 instead.
Alpine makes decent products but I think there is a lot better for the money. Let me know what you are willing to spend and type of music and I can probably come up with something. There are a lot of good/decent brands out there.
im ruuning 2 6x9 fosgates in the deck 2 6.25 up front fosgates and i have a 15" polk in the trunk and it sounds great!
I'll say! I really appreciate all the help, and I'm sure you'll hear from me again if I have any questions about installation
heres one question no one tends to ask what type of music do you tend to play? rock/metal i'd go with a 8 or 10 in sub in a sealed box for nice fast punches.more for double bass if rap, ported box to get that "boom" bandpass is kind of best of both worlds I had a 6in bazooka .. worked well in my singlecab truc, though 8in would of been better for rock/metal i play. For the mav you can put it inbetween bucket seats or in trunk in the lil raised cutout against back seat if you really want to keep trunk space, subs/box enclosures wont be for you , but these 2 options will be bazooka tubes(get amplified version) http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/products/132/Car_Subwoofers/Bass_Tubes.aspx powered subs http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/products/131/Car_Subwoofers/Powered_Subwoofers.aspx a single 8 or 10in box sub will still take up some room with ok space left dual 10s practiacly takes up whole trunk in my mav
Decent advice but one thing you missed. Bandpass boxes are hard to properly tune and have a limited frequency range. I would stick with sealed or ported.
If you're wanting to save space, Rockford Fosgate subs is one way to go. They work in small boxes compared to like say Kicker and Infinity. Bazooka tubes are good in small spaces, They have to be mounted so that they "aim" into a corner. I had 2 8" passives and they sounded good in an old hatchback I had at one point. They don't take as much power to run either.
to add to this topic, you can always go "free air" configutions with a pair of subs in the 6x9 decklid either made adapters to fit a 6.5in sub or enlarge holes to accommodate a 8in sub Hybrid Audio makes a great 6.5 in a new 8in under their clarus lineup Sundown Audio makes 8+ in subs specific to box types their SA-8 or X-8 thats being released soon will excell over most brands in a ported box config
This is a heck of a running post, but I'll add what I did that may help with others in the future that read this post: * Make use of your fiberglass molding skills There are plenty of instructional dvds out there (that's where I learned how to do this) and you can probably learn off of youtube. I looked up 'how to make sub woofer fiberglass boxes' and ordered a dvd. From past experience, I preferred the sub to fire in a diagonal line rather than straight on into the cab. Using strips of fiber and glue (yea, this isn't technical) I made a mold in the corner of the trunk that made the base for the box itself. *See attached picture* Using a computer program to calculate the VAS and other specifics, I put a sealed box together using a JL Audio 12w3 sub I had. The two parts that used fiberglass were the base and where the speaker mounts as shown in the picture. Like I said, review some fiberglass videos to learn how to make fiberglass sub boxes. The sub accompanies a pair of 6x9s in the back and 4 5" mids in the front that I made a custom center console for. My objective was to keep the spare tire in the trunk, mounted, and keep room for bags of groceries and the likes. I achieved that with this setup and it sounds amazing. ps. I put sound proofing all around inside the cab and sprayed a "sound proofing" spray in the trunk to help.
Vry nice Stex! What did u spray for sound proofing and what method for applying it? I been contemplating using "Lizard Skin" for sound and heat transfer. Also, how abt pix of the console setup?
This was about 6 years ago when I put all this together so the links I'll supply will be the closest that I can find and remember. I used Cascade Audio Engineering materials: The cab sound dampening: http://www.parts-express.com/cascade-v-maxmp-aluminum-acoustic-damping-sheets-28-sq-ft--268-287 The spray for the trunk: http://www.parts-express.com/cascad...-acoustic-damping-spray-18-oz-net-wt--268-250 I may get an ear-full from actual audio pros but the stuff worked for me and helped tremendously. Especially with a pair of Flowmaster 40series dumping under the rear axle at the ground... I used some type of non-residue cleaner for the trunk, sorry can't remember what it was but it was used for paint prepping to clean the surface, and wiped down the trunk and lightly sanded some areas where there was grime. I think I used 3 cans back there. After that, I picked up a can of Spackle spray paint I saw in the auto paint department to add some white flake so the trunk had some more character to it. As for the center console, I currently don't have any pictures of it and it's out of the car at the moment while I try to figure out how to adjust the angle of the speakers more... and make my cup holders deeper. My legs don't need to listen to the music as much as my ears would like to. I made the center console because I didn't want to cut my kick panels.
