If you have one of the old solid fly swatter fans - go the the junkyard and get a clutch fan. I'll guess 5 HP for $10. Make it run cooler too. Cleaver
oh, can't believe I forgot the clutch fan... I'm so ashamed... Hooker 6901 headers, the best for our cars. Don't worry about Super Comps, not worth the extra $$. If you're handy with some tools, get some aluminized pipe and mufflers and make your own cheap duals.
Good to know about the clutch fans, i dont know crap about fans, i'm swapping my clutch fan on my 95 302 for a taurus electric fan pretty soon on my Fullsize Bronco, could i just throw the clutch fan onto that? :evilsmile If not, what kind of year range 302s am i looking for? Handy with tools? care to elaborate? I've got the normal shop tools, big compressor, sawzall, air tools, grinder, welder, torch access, etc, etc... I've wondered how you would make your own true duals, but i've never done anything like make your own exhaust...I know about tube bending as i've done that a bunch on my fullsize bronco for bumpers and exo-cage, and will for an internal cage, but exhaust pipe is a different beast How would i bend it? Anyone have pics on how they ran single, or dual exhausts? Also, would i just buy the downpipes from the header flanges, then just make custom from there? or what? That'd definitly be on the cheap..and if i could do it without being retrictive (i dont think it'd be an issue though, as long as i didnt kink bad), i'd be really interested I've seen those pipe benders, like from Harbor Freight, but i've heard they're only good for stuff like thick wall pipe? my true duals that was on my bronco stock (i tore it off ) wasn't bent on a mandrel bend, and had a bunch of kinks in the tube, and wasnt restrictive on a much more powerful 302...so i'm assuming that small kinks shouldnt matter much on a mild engine? (if kinking will be n issue) sorry for rambling Edit: what kind of mufflers do you guys suggest? i wouldnt mind a throaty sound, but would rather keep it mild, not the drone of a flowmaster40, anyone know of a low restriction mild exhaust? Maybe twin 50 flowmasters? I've just heard of too many problems with in-cab noise with the flowmasters, bronco has dual's with glasspacks, but that's a bronco, and quite a different vehicle/usage, this will be on the highway alot more, so...will need to be a lil quieter, i plan on throwing down some peel-n-seel to insulate it better for heat/sound, but dont want it to be a necessity for the exhaust... Suggestions welcome!
on the highway, glasspacks and longtube headers are not that loud. headers really cooled down the exhaust note except for when under acceleration. What 95 model was the 302 in? Bronco? odds are it is reverse rotation, neither the fan or clutch will work. I got a clutch fan from an 84/85 Crown Vic, works great. Planning on electric when money starts raining on me. Bottom line, is it serpentine? do the grooves of the belt ride on the water pump pulley or is it run from the back of the belt? grooves = standard rotation, back = reverse. a bud of mine has a manual tubing bender that worked for my slight modifications on my exhaust, but I'd hate to try to do it all myself. If I did it completely on my own, I'd have lots of extra pipe or it would have turndowns right before the axle.
Bronco, yes, and...it's a serp, didnt think about that, i'll check, but i'm sure it wont work.... Money raining down? check out the taurus fan dude, it puts out 3500-4000CFM, plenty for a SBF, and if you set it up with a thermometer, or use a switch and monitor a temp gauge, you'll see some big MPG gains, 1-2+++ depending on how bad your stock fan was, or if the clutch was bad on your fan. I got my taurus fan used (well, bought from a yard and used by someone), and shipped with a HD Relay, for like 55 bucks....they should fit verticly easily i'd imagine, and you can always trim it down to fit verticle/horizontal if need-be...I've heard claims of 20HP gained back from using an electric fan, because of less parasitic drag from the clutched fan, and running when it's not needing to be. I may go this route on the mav as well if i have good results on the bronco, and after i take measurements and make sure everything will clear on the sides and on the back of the fan I've used a bender, it's pretty simple, but it's very delicate...I dont know if i'd want to do exhaut bending myself without someone helping....
Permacool fan clutch from jegs for clockwise or counterclockwise engines http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1117&prmenbr=361 Personally i wouldntever get a clutch out of a junkyard, You dont know just how old the thing is and if it comes apart it will cost you a radiator. for 35 dollars its just not worth a used part
is a clutch fan good or bad on a moderatly built 302...i have heard that they are not recommended on engines that are being used for hot rodding or draggin..... thoughts?
We've got that through goodsam (for camper) and i think through our insurance as well They aren't good, as they cause a parasitic drain on the vehicle, electric fans are the way to go, taurus fans are a great junkyard find, shouldnt pay over 60-65 locally for one, most people get em for 30-35, beats spending 200+ for a fan with the same CFM. You'd be surprised how often you really dont NEED your fan running, and it's just draining power...
Lots of posts... Didn't read 'em all. I want to hammer the exhaust point some more. That is the absolute best mod you can do to a stock engine. Get some cheap long tubes, like Flowtech, run them into an H-pipe, then turbo style mufflers, end up with turn downs just before the axle. You figure under 100 for the headers, 40 bux max for the mufflers, the rest is cheap or can even be home made if you source some 2.5" pipe. Gotta do the exhaust. No other mod will do you much good without this mod first. Headers make HP, make torque, increase fuel economy, lower running temps, sound better, and amplify other performance mods. Also, don't forget you can get good used headers cheap. Go new on the mufflers and pipes though. Other stuff: Flex fan Timing bump Timing chain (the stock part is usually retarded, stretched, and has plastic gears that break at the worst time) Go to a later model (early 80s) distributor cap. Use a carb insulator or heat shield. Larger fuel line Moroso alternator pulley (if you don't have a lot of extra electrical adds) Open air cleaner 160 degree t-stat Block heat risers in the intake Space the carb with an open spacer LOSE WEIGHT! Remember, every 100 lbs lost is an effective gain of 10 rwhp. Spare, jack, insulation, excessive carpet (trunk for example), steel rims, abandoned AC componets still on the car, big bumpers, big battery (btw: batteries are best in the trunk over or behind the passenger tire), power steering, gas is 7 lbs per gallon, heater (if you live in the south), aluminum driveshaft (you can scare up a stock Ford shaft at the salvage yard and pay a few bux to have it shortened), never use an FMX or C6 (heavy and power drains), don't use older rear disc brakes (either stock drums or Exploder rear discs)... Find a Pinto, Bobcat, or M2 in the salvage yard. They often have 3.40 and 3.55 gears. The chunks are dirt cheap and the swap is quick. My uncle just picked up a 3.55 for 20 bux at a yard. Don't sink money into the swap. Just get the chunk and a gasket... put it in and be gratified by the quick performance boost. Done for now. Dave
I don't know which is better to tell you the truth, flex or clutch. With my car, temps were cooler, less noise and less drag with a clutch fan. Flex fan looks cooler in there, but the end result, the clutch fan works better. I wouldn't worry about getting one from a junkyard. You can always get a replacement clutch, but the fan itself is kinda hard to come by in most parts stores.
good post ratio411, These dont have O2 sensors either do they? that'll make the exhaust work even easier...i may have to see what the local NAPA Has for exhaust tube/turn downs so i can see what kind of stuff i could gather around here...I'm kinda "new" to exhaust work, like exactly how to set it up on your own..going from headers which will then mount up with header flanges to 3" tube? then an H pipe of 3" tube, then to a 3-2.5 reducer into the mufflers 2.5 in/out, then some pipe, then a downpipe? I'm such a noob when it comes to exhausts... I know all about the weight thing, less breakage n more power. The regearing is always a good idea as well, and it's much simpler with 2wd than a 4wd. Much cheaper too...I'd like to find 3.55s with LS if possible...a "drop in" should be about 5-600 cheaper than regearing, lol, i paid about 1100 by the time i rebuilt/detroit/geared my bronco's rear axle...not wanting to dump that type of money into the Maverick. I dont think it'd even need 3.55s unless i was actually drag racing, or was having problems hooking up, mileage is always important, and 3.55s would jump up the highway RPM's. Edit: I may look into different axle swaps n such, as throwing in a rear axle, and regearing, is quite a plus, I'll have to do some more research into which rear axle is in this Mav, and what is the same width and is easily swapped. I have a fullwidth 8.8 extra but i bet it might need a lift to clear tires that werent in the wheel wells I'll look into doing alot of this stuff when i get the time, and money to do em, thanks guys Edit: what do you guys think about not going full duals? going dual pipes, into a single hi-flow cat, and then muffler? or should i just stick with an h-pipe, then 2 mufflers...I'm just really worried this thing will be overly loud...Also, i found some Dynomax blackjack longtube headers, are these good?
Everything so far makes since. Headers, exhaust porting, duel exhaust, elec. fans. bumping up the timing. I myself have found some extra power in my F100 by just plain tuning the carb and timing. Getting the accelerator pump cam and squirter set up right for the engine really helps power wise and helps economy also. I've read where an improperly set up acc. cam will waist gas. Setting up the timing curve in my distributor also found a good bit of power plus economy. I am running 12btdc initial and 36btdc total plus about 12 degrees of vacuum advance set up on full manifold vacuum. It seems to like it alot. Very peppy and responsive. clint
Electric, out of mid 90's taurus', with 3.8s. (Don't get duped and buy a 3.0 fan, it's much smaler, and pushes ALOT less air)Thunderbirds had em too, but they were slightly different dimensions IIRC, also the lincolns. I know some guys with hot 302's that run the fans. If you compare price with a comporable aftermarket electric fan, you're looking at 200+, although aftermarkets would pull less amperage, if that's a big issue. The taurus fan pulls something like 100 at startup, and 40ish on continous use, so use a HD relay or 3-30amps or somethign like that..dont want to be burning up relays or burning wires . General consensus for the offroading comunity, is that the fan is enough for a SBF, at least mild SBF, and some are getting away with a single one on a BBF. A few built BBF, who offroad, are using dual taurus fans to keep cool. This is all much more extreme conditions than street usage though, that's all high revving, low gearing, very little air flow, and slow moving. For the street, I think the fan would coo a SBF without any problems. People either claim no MPG lost, or up to 2MPG saved..probably depending on the condition of the clutch in the stock fan. Here's a couple links with info..pics, wiring diagrams, setups, etc. http://soderblom.net/bronco/tech/fan/ http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/files/e-fan_harness.gif http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.shtml Some on ebay: http://search.ebay.com/taurus-fan_W0QQfrppZ50QQfsopZ1QQmaxrecordsreturnedZ300QQsatitleZtaurusQ2cQ20fan Here's a thread that's 11 pages long on the bronco board about them, has good discussion, knowledge, and alot of wiring diagrams: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39380 Hope that helps
