Just my $.02 but I think concerns about fans are a bit overrated. I am not a fan of flex fans as I have seen them not move enough air to keep flow coming through the radiator. I would go with a aftermarket or swapped electric job mounted against the radiator before I would ever go with a flex fan. I'd prefer a proper engine temp engine over the gain resulted in the lossed drag of the factory fan. Seth
Oh my, don't even think about using these, they fit like crap. The tubes actually sit on the shock towers. Use a Hedman or Hooker header, you'll be glad you did. It's amazing how initially it was a post on cheap tricks to get a few more ponies out of the engine. All of these ideas are good but will cost more than you would probably initially want to spend. Personally, if you don't want to spend a bunch of money start with a good tune-up, changing all your filters, pcv valve, plugs, cap and rotor. Get the good stuff though, don't cheap out with off brands. Bump your timing till it pings and then back it off a hair. You may also want to search around for a wreck that has a Duraspark distributor, module, coil and wiring harness set-up, should be able to pick one up really cheap and there are wiring diagrams available for an easy install and all you need is basic tools.
My main point was to start at the basics, get the necessities out of the way, or at least in the plans, before i move onto an upgrade that's not worthile because i haven't done another mod...so all these helped a bunch, now i have more or less a "build sheet" I was at a stoplight tonight with a newer northstar caddy, and a f250 w/ a 351 and at least an exhaust..needless to say it was more than decent, doesnt have the lowend and pure HP the caddy has of course, but it was by no means a "blow away"....the f250 i held my own in, pretty much neck/neck... God this would make a kickass sleeper..i got the Maverick bug
Oldie's are a hauntin' 2021... Some headers are no doubt easier than others. Even with shorties, at best you'll be able to bolt one header on prior to engine install. Leaving motor on "the hook" so it can be moved will make the second easier. If already installed, jack up engine so it can rock from side to side.
If you want power on the real cheap, you probably should have gone with a small block Chevy. Fords are a bit more expensive to hop up. You seem to be on to on main platform that speed is built on: more air and fuel and breathing well both ways. Or as someone on TV called it, suck, bang, and blow. Going with a performance carb is one step, headers and a larger diameter exhaust, less restrictive air intake. Those alone will create more power without going internal. Bigger plug wires, better plugs than OEM. Now, once you go internal parts, the sky's the limit. Valves, heads, cam, crank, porting. Suck, bang, blow would be the cheapest way to go and the least intrusive to the engine. Still, any way you go, power costs $$.
That is what I love about Chevy ! Cheap horsepower and very available parts. I am going with the 302 in the Mav since its in there. The small amount of clearance in the motor compartment , with a 302 is a sight ! But look how narrow a Maverick is , to start with ! Honestly, the most bang for the buck, would be some rear gear. I do like the easy swap of a 8 or 9 inch rear ! That is better than Chevy. It surprises me a little V8 Mavs ran like a 17 second 1/4 mile. That is mostly the result of that 2.79 to 3.00 rear gear. A 3.50 gear swap would get it to at least 15.50 IMO.
Constable your engine isn't going to run very well with only three strokes suck, bang and blow. There needs to be four strokes; suck, squeeze, bang and blow. It's a very old phrase. Just adding some clarification.
