Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by ptpdub, Feb 21, 2011.
Will do chip! I’m up in Pennsylvania till December but I should be back in Fl after that.
You will have to come to Carlisle this year.
I will 100% be there I have already told work that I will be taking the time off. It will be nice to meet you all in person. It’s unfortunate I can’t bring my cars this year.
road up to Summit and ordered a Wilwood rear brake kit for Patches.
met up with Jeff, we had lunch at............Baby Janes.
Pulled drivers door panel, welded up worn teeth on regulator, cleaned, greased and painted it. Cleaned inside of door for sound deadener. Need to paint some rust bullet in there first.
Changed the remanufactured m/c on my 73/74??? mav...threads are different on my new one...Could not get my thread gauge in orifice....like counting b.b.'s with a pair of boxing gloves on....gggrrrrr...found some tube, thread etc info on this forum....went to town and found I'd lost the shopping list along with brake line info....bit myself a few times...wouldn't be surprised if a rabid javelina attacks me next.....all is well, all is well
Yesterday finally got to work on the green Mav. The big issue was whether or not the engine was totally free and turned out it is. At first, couldn't get it to turn with the starter and that was what the issue was, the starter itself. Today, going to get it to run. Tank flush and new ignition parts and hold our breath.
road up to Summit and picked up 10 new wheel studs for the rear axles.
after I cut the others off to perfection (3 times) I remembered why they were long to start with...
got one axle pulled and ready for my new Wilwood brakes. changed the studs in that axel and replaced the axle seal while waiting on the brake kit...it'll be here Fri.
I will do the same hopefully in the month of April. Right now i am working on putting together a T5 crossmemeber welded that i got from 71 gold. I hope i don't run through similar issues. Wish me luck.
Finally got the Mav running this week. For a 20 year sitting engine (250) it took relatively little to get it running again. Valves are a bit noisy but we hope it will quiet down after a bit. Hopefully, I won't have to replace the lifters but we'll see. Going to check oil pressure to be safe. New aluminum rad, heater and rad hoses, vacuum lines & belts are going in now. Already did the water pump as it was toasty and new thermostat. Replacing the transmission cooler lines as once they saw pressure, we saw a leak which didn't surprise me much. Went with copper/nickel lines as they bend much easier and last longer though are significantly more expensive. While replacing the cap & rotor, had one screw on the cap shear. Typical old Ford issue. Fortunately was able to carefully drill it out and the new cap screwed down tightly so no need to replace the distributor. What I found interesting was that on the new cap, the screw that sheared was a different composition from the other one so it seems the aftermarket saw a problem and corrected it. It is the one closest to the block.
got my Wilwood rear disc brake kit today. got the pass. side installed. hope to finish the other side tomorrow.
Did a dry compression test. 125, 145, 160, 155, 150, 155, (doing a wet test, soon and will be buying a leak down tester) engine has a rough idle, but no oil fowling on the spark plugs. Thinking valves. There was carbon fowling on all the spark plugs, but I've had some carburetor trouble and the plugs are about 20,000 miles old so I think that's unrelated.
I think you're likely to find a bad valve when you do your leakdown test.
Even though #1 is a bit weak, I've never seen a cylinder with over 100 psi cause a rough idle.
Carb issues are #1 cause of rough idle.
I agree with Krazy. Usually carbon fouled plugs are caused by a rich mix. You already said you had carb issues so that's where I would go first.
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