What is the best cable clutch conversion kit to use?

I cant find one that is for a Maverick. Has anyone found one? Or does another one come close or bolt in?

 

you didn't tell us what transmission you are using. Is this an old school standard, or a modern t5??

If you have a t5 in there, let me know, and I can give you boat loads of info on cables.

 

I`m wanting to put a t5 in mine with the cable cluch so I could use some info

 

I haven't put one in my mav, and others can tell you how, but I can tell you quite a bit about the cable setup on those cars.

the stock mustang t5 uses a cable driven setup (obviously) this routes through the hole in the firewall and hooks onto a quadrant which attatches to the shafts coming off the clutch pedal under the dash. the OEM ford quadrant setup is actually a 2 piece plastic setup with teeth that engage each other. It is designed to be "self adjusting" but in truth is a major pos, as with time, the plastic teeth strip, making the clutch adjustment slip, and when you put a real clutch behind that t5, the plastic quadrant flexes and bends.

The first thing people go out and do is to buy an aluminum aftermarket one piece quadrant and an adjustable cable, which in effect now makes the mustang clutch setup into a manually adjustable setup, so you can now choose where and how you want your clutch to engage and disengage.

The problem is, that ALL aftermarket adjustable clutch cables suck ass. They are essentially all made the same and tend to stretch and snapped. I learned this the hard way, 3 times. When the cable snaps, your screwed without a clutch, and it could happen anywhere.

The best fix for this is to NOT use an adjustable cable. Keep the oem non-adjustable mustang cable. IF you don't have one, DO NOT by a vato zone cable, as they are even worse than the adjustable units. By an oem ford non adjustable cable. Don't buy one from the dealer either, as you will pay mountains of cash. Companies such as 50resto, diversified, and possibly D&D motorsports sell the oem cables for $30. I think diversified sells the oem cable with a new clutch fork and ball joint for like $45-60, which is a fantastic deal.

use the oem non adjustable cable with a firewall adjuster. Now you don't have to crawl on your back under the car to adjust your clutch. the cable goes through a mechanism which slips through the firewall. the cable then slips through it, and you adjust the thing at the firewall, which pulls your clutch cable out or in, and therefore adjusts it without the need for an adjustable cable.

The 2 best kits on the market (debateably of course) are the upr kit and the steeda kit. Steeda has a nice double hook quadrant which provides additional ways to pull your cable back more for your adjustment. Upr has a triple hook quadrant, but beware the third hook, it is just there to avoid the steeda patent, I learned this the hard way too, as I used the third hook on my bro's mustang and put the clutch pedal practically at knee height, and it wasn't disengaging all the way. the second hook works perfect.

Here is a picture of the firewall adjuster and the triple hook quadrant from upr, that you would use with your oem cable. It is very cheap, something like $65-$75.

http://uprproducts.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=126

The last and final problems people encounter is the clutch adjustment. I also blew out 2 clutches over a period of a few years because nobody could tell me how to properly adjust your clutch. the myth is that you have to have slack on your cable. BS.

the t5 and pressure plate are designed to have CONSTANT pressure on it. Stick that cable on the second hook, and tighten the adjustment till where the brake pedal is almost even in height with the gas pedal. Push on the clutch. Right about halfway down it suddenly becomes much stiffer, this is the actual disengagement point, adjust it right before that point, and you are set. The important part is that it is tight enough to dis engage all the way, but loose enough to engage all the way when your foot is let off all the way.

sorry for the long winded answer, I have had many many trial and error experiences with this setup, as it is very confusing to someone who isn't familiar with the whole thing.

Hope this helps some, and feel free to ask more questions.

BTW, shameless plug, I have a near brand new t5, along with everything needed (from a mustang that is--you may need some maverick specific parts)

anyway, pm me if interested, I am willing to ship this thing.

btw, many typos, sorry, no time to proof read right now

 

Or you could buy the kit from mustangs plus and adapt it to your maverick. The 67-68 mustang pedals would be the closest to the stock mavericks

http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchan...Y&Store_Code=MPFMP&Category_Code=clutch_cable

 

Thanks for the link .

Would you say that it would be easier to take the dash out to do this because even though I`m short its still hard to get under the dash that and I`m gonna be taking the bottom of the dash out any way because it needs replaced . Thanks for all the info every one I`m gonna need to print all of this

 

if it needs to be replaced anyhow, what the hell right??

otherwise, TAKE OUT THE FRONT SEAT!!! ha ha, I never follow my own advice, but if you take out the front seat, everything should be much easier, and you can lie flat on your back.

 

With my luck something would fall on my head and I would get stuck I gess I`ll need to start saving now and in a year or two I`ll put in bucket seats , new carpet , put in a lower dash from a 70 - 73 mav or comet , T5 , my built up 250 , and a windshield any one have some money that you just cant stand to look at any more ?

 

do you take paypal

 

I am probably using a toploader. I plan to drag race and the motor is probably putting out enough power to hurt a T-5. I will switch to a Tremec when I have the money. I just ordered a steel 10.5" flywheel, hi po clutch kit and scatter shield (set up for cable) from Anderson Ford Motorsport. The scatter shield has both toploader/Tremec and T-5 bolt patterns. I found a Maverick pedal assembly at the Maverick connection and am ordering it this week. The cable kit is the onely thing I am unsure of so my friend who runs The Mustang Ranch here in Fresno says he will find one that works. He has done several conversions on classic Mustangs so he is pretty confident he will not have too much trouble with my car (Crossin my fingers). The Maverick is currently at his shop getting its 9" rear with 3.70 traction lock rear installed.
It should be faster with the 3.70 4-speed combo than with the 4.11 peg leg C-4 combo.

Thanks for the replys.

 

I'm in the middle of doing this addition now. I took a bunch of pictures of both pedal boxes so far. I will take more of the progress.

Blown76Mav how far does the cross tube stick out past the pedal box on both sides or is it centered in there?

Thanks
Chad

 

Blown76Mav I'm planing to drill and install the clutch pedal saturday morning. I have one more question. You said that it is an inch forward and 3/4 inch up from the brake pedal. When you measured it is it center to center or from the closest edges?

 

I got the transfer tube spotwelded in the maverick pedal box today. Tomarrow I will cut down the big brake pedal, trim the top of the clutch pedal (the part where the safety switch connects) drill the fire wall hole and install the pedal box and steering wheel. Hopefully I will get the engine rebuilt next month. I guess I drilled the hole in a slightly different spot that Blown76Mav but I tried to put it in the same spot. I wont have to trim the wiper motor bracket just the top of the clutch pedal. So far I have pictures of both stock pedal boxes and pictures of the maverick box with the added pedal but the pedals are untrimmed. Tomarrow I will take pictures of the installed box, trimmed pedals, and cable. If anyone wants them send me a private message. The stock pictures are large files. I turned the resolution down for the rest of them.

Thanks again for the help Blown76Mav

 

the tube is still pretty high up almost to the top of the inside of the box. I brake pedal just misses the clutch tube. I got lucky there because I didnt even think to look there untill the holes were drilled and the tube installed.

 

What year of pedal box do I need from a fox mustang to do this?
I've got a Mav pedal box, but I don't like the idea of the weld on or bracket mods. Bisides, looks like they would be in the way of everything.